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Can I connect water to my shed?

There are many potential benefits to installing plumbing in a work shed. Running water is convenient in any workspace environment and can add value to the shed. When done correctly, general plumbing can be a fairly easy process, depending on the installation location inside the shed and the purpose of the plumbing.

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There are many potential benefits to installing plumbing in a work shed. Running water is convenient in any workspace environment and can add value to the shed. When done correctly, general plumbing can be a fairly easy process, depending on the installation location inside the shed and the purpose of the plumbing. The following tips should help you with any work-shed plumbing installation in terms of pipe placement difficulty and other outside factors. Just keep in mind that if any of these tips seem beyond the common shed owner’s capability, a professional plumber may be necessary to complete the work.

1. Zoning

The first thing you need to do when installing plumbing in a shed workspace is to research the local council rules and regulations. There are many issues that come into play with plumbing and outdoor structures. The main one is the fact that once a shed contains plumbing, it’s officially considered a habitable space and therefore has to meet certain building codes. A common building code that will definitely come into play is the depth at which the main plumbing line that runs from the house to the workspace is buried. Depending on regional location, there may be certain depths required in order to clear the ground frost line. Also, the type of pipe used is important with regard to water pressure (PSI). The best thing you can do when facing compliance issues with zoning laws is to hire a knowledgeable general contractor.

2. Insulation

As stated above, if the shed lies in colder climates, or the annual local temperatures occasionally drop below freezing, proper pipe insulation is required. We’ve already covered pipe depth outside the shed, but what about the pipes inside?

If these aren’t insulated, the chance of bursting a pipe in cold weather is a major possibility. If the shed is well insulated, the plumbing on the interior side of the insulation is more than likely going to be fine. But the exposed pipes that run out of the ground and into the shed need to be covered in thick foam pipe-insulating tape. And even then, the best tactic would be to install a water-shutoff valve where the shed plumbing line connects to the house. That way, the water line to the work shed can be shut off and the pipes drained on those particularly cold nights.

3. Digging

One unavoidable fact about running a plumbing line to a work shed is the inevitability of having to dig. And, depending on whether it’s just a water line, or a water and sewage line for a toilet, there could be a little digging involved . . . or a lot. A great option that can make the entire plumbing process a lot easier is to rent a ditch digger or trencher. Ditch diggers are fairly cheap to rent and user-friendly, and they’ll easily cut the job time in half. An important thing to remember when using a trencher or ditch digger, or when doing any kind of digging, is to have a city inspector come out and check for other buried pipes and electrical conduits.

Call dial before you dig on 1100

So when it comes to plumbing that shed or workspace, use the tips above to avoid unnecessary delays or mistakes. Always keep in mind such things as zoning laws, insulation requirements, and digging factors when it comes to running a pipeline from point A to point B. Offcourse and easier and sometimes less frustrating option it to call a plumbing professional or qualified contractor.

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There is a lot said about roofing felt - we don't like felt for the simple reason that if the roof leaks, having felt in the way means that water is displaced from the leak, and you often don't know about the leak until too late. If you ARE going to use a felt, it must be breathable. The reason for this is simple - hot air rises, and more importantly, water vapour rises, being the lighter of Oxygen, Nitrogen and Water in the air. So it ends up in the roof. If the air in the roof space is warm, and contains water - when the roof gets cold in winter, water condenses on the underside of the roof. Now, if you have breathable roofing felt moisture finds it hard to condense on the felt, and gets through and wicks away. If you have that old bitumen felting - the black stuff - water condenses and runs down it - soaking the battens and rafters - and in bad cases, rotting them. So - if you are told by an architect or Building Regulations that you must have roofing felt - make sure it is a breathable roof membrane such as Monarfil, or similar - it looks a bit like linen cloth - usually blue or sometimes grey in colour. ANY roof should be well ventilated - if you see white stains on the rafters, it could well be condensation. If you have the black tarry stuff, watch it carefully - sometimes you will see water droplets on it -which are not good at all - if you have those, your roof badly needs ventilating.

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