DIY Builds
Photo: Evan Velez Saxer
For installations with a longer service life, copper-bonded ground rods are the best fit. For many years, the copper cold water pipe has served as the primary grounding electrode for commercial & residential grounding.
How to Finish Out a Barndominium in 7 Steps Frame the Walls. Install Insulation. Install Utilities. Install Drywall. Paint the Rooms. Mount...
Read More »
Here's the Craft Pricing Formula Cost of Supplies + Labor + 10-15% Overhead = Total Costs. Total Costs x 2 = Wholesale Price. Wholesale Price x 2 =...
Read More »You’re reading an outdated article. Please go to the recent issues to find up-to-date content. If you’re reading this, chances are you have enjoyed the sense of accomplishment that comes from driving an 8-foot long, mostly steel rod into the earth and connecting a ground wire to it. It’s tough work. At the end of the day, you know that your effort was justified because you have installed a system that will protect people from electrical shock, help safeguard expensive electronic equipment, limit neutral-to-ground voltage and satisfy the NEC along the way. There is an increasing awareness in the electrical industry of the benefits of a low-resistance, high-quality grounding system. This article takes a nuts-and-bolts approach to examining one the most commonly installed components: the ground rod. Copper-bonded, galvanized, and stainless steel ground rods are available in many different sizes. We will not focus on stainless steel rods as their high cost prohibits widespread use. More commonly used are copper-bonded and galvanized steel ground rods. Besides price, what really makes these rods different? Both rods are composed of a steel core with a tensile strength ranging from 58,000 psi for galvanized rods to >90,000 psi for copper-bonded steel rods. From a theoretical standpoint, the higher the tensile strength, the less likely the rod is to “mushroom” or spread when being driven. This is a concern when rods are being coupled or when connections are being made to the top of the rod. Practically speaking, we all know that any ground rod will mushroom if you hit it without using a drive sleeve specifically designed to prevent this. So, the steel used in a copper-bonded rod may give it a slight edge in “driveability,” but not enough to classify it as a superior electrode.
Unless you've constructed your shed on a concrete slab, chances are there's a space between the floor of the shed and the ground beneath. ......
Read More »
particleboard Much of the IKEA furniture is made from particleboard with a smooth, white finish. This densely compressed wood provides a lighter...
Read More »
These results may lead you to believe that copper-bonded rods are better than galvanized rods. Sometimes this is true and sometimes not. I want to emphasize the importance of matching the appropriate ground rod to the application. If the facility being grounded has a life expectancy of less than 15 years, a galvanized ground rod is appropriate and will provide the most cost-effective solution. For installations with a longer service life, copper-bonded ground rods are the best fit. For many years, the copper cold water pipe has served as the primary grounding electrode for commercial & residential grounding. With non-conductive PVC piping used more extensively these days, the supplemental ground rod is becoming the primary electrode. It only makes sense that it should be required to perform as long as the copper water pipe that came before it. As such, I strongly encourage the use of UL-listed copper-bonded ground rods on new home construction.
50 years EPDM roof membranes remain stable over time and can have a life expectancy of over 50 years. ** Made from synthetic rubber, EPDM roofing...
Read More »
The majority seem to agree that insulated, unheated garages, should be allowed to breathe. If the garage is heated, you will need a vapor barrier,...
Read More »
The length and diameter of the ground rod not only affect its resistance but also its driving characteristics. Although larger diameter ground rods do not have an appreciably lower ground resistance value, they do have a larger steel core that makes them easier to drive in harder soil by providing extra rigidity. It's probably no coincidence that most rods driven in Canada, with its harder soil, are 3/4 inch in diameter as opposed to 5/8-inch rods which dominate in the United States. The length of a ground rod plays a much bigger role in its final ground resistance measurement, and it goes without saying that it takes longer to drive a longer ground rod. The NEC and UL require a ground rod to be at least 8 feet in length. This specification was obviously created by engineers that had never driven a ground rod or noticed that most people are not 8’ tall. Longer rods are more dangerous to install and bow more when being driven. The more a rod bows or shudders, the less efficient the driving process is. Shorter rods are safer and easier to drive. In fact, I would love to see the industry standardize on using two 4-foot rods and a coupler to achieve the required 8 feet total length. Installations would be faster, easier, and safer not to mention that the logistics of transporting and storing a 4-foot rod are much simpler than longer 8- or 10-foot rods. Hopefully, this article has given you a little more insight on a product that you use everyday—the ground rod. Not all ground rods are created equal nor are the techniques used to install them. Installing a grounding system is best-done right the first time as it is every expensive to rework, and failure of the grounding system puts people and expensive electronic equipment jeopardy. Understanding the functions of a grounding system and the characteristics of the various components used to implement it will allow the electrical contractor to make educated buying decisions. Exceptional contractors will understand that finding the cheapest way to meet code can end up costing more.
Although it might be tempting, don't bury your extension cord. As we've already discussed, extension cords are not rated to be buried. The...
Read More »
Rhinoceros and Revit are programs with different properties. While Rhinoceros is a good option for modelling complex surfaces and geometries with...
Read More »
Today, we'll show you how you can pack a storage unit to maximize space. LINE THE UNIT WALLS. There are several different storage organizing ideas...
Read More »
In general, your neighbour only has the right to build up to the boundary line (line of junction) between the two properties but there are...
Read More »