Can you just put dry concrete in a post hole?

Fast-setting concrete is ideal for setting posts because there's no mixing—you simply pour the dry concrete from the bag right into the hole, then add water.

quikrete.com - QUIKRETE® - Setting Posts in Concrete

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SETTING POSTS IN CONCRETE

QUIK-DATA

Cost:

Skill:

Time:

Tools

Digging tools, drill, level, bucket, gravel, post (must be rot-resistant wood, rust-resistant metal, or an appropriate synthetic material), 2 x 4 braces, wood stakes, wood screws.

Materials

Fast-setting concrete, all-purpose gravel, QUIK-TUBE® building form.

Whether you’re building a new fence or anchoring a play structure, setting the posts in concrete is the best way to make sure they’ll stand straight and true for many years. Fast-setting concrete is ideal for setting posts because there’s no mixing—you simply pour the dry concrete from the bag right into the hole, then add water. The concrete sets up in 20 to 40 minutes, so you can quickly move on to the next stage of the project (a great convenience when setting fence posts) or backfill the hole to finish the job. Under normal curing conditions, you can apply heavy weight to the post (a basketball backboard, for example) after just 4 hours. The steps shown here can be used for all sorts of outdoor projects, like setting posts for mailboxes, lamps, and signs, plus flagpoles and uprights for sports and play equipment. For structural or load-bearing applications, such as concrete footings for deck posts, or for securing any post in sandy soil, follow the steps on pages 59 to 60, using concrete forms to build the footings or set the posts.

QUIK-TIP:

Setting Posts in Concrete

1. Dig the post hole, making it three times the width of the post and at a depth equal to 1/3 to 1⁄2 of the above-ground length of the post, plus 6" (right). For loose or sandy soil, using a tube form is recommended (left). 2. Pour 6" of gravel or crushed stone into the bottom of the hole. Compact and level the gravel using a post or 2 x 4. 3. Set the post in the hole. Attach angled 2 x 4 braces to two adjacent sides of the post using one screw for each brace. Drive a stake into the ground near the lower end of each brace. 4. Use a level to position the post plumb (perfectly vertical), checking on two adjacent sides with the level, then fasten the braces to the stakes. 5. Fill the hole with concrete up to 3 to 4" below the ground level. Add the recommended amount of water. After the concrete has set, backfill the hole with soil and/or sod.

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Does a sleep out need consent?

The sleepout or cabin must be associated with the main dwelling where sanitary facilities are available. Some common features where a consent will be required include: if a fire wall is required (for example, less than 1m from a boundary), regardless of any neighbours' permission.

aucklandcouncil.govt.nz - 1. Check if you need a consent to build or extend a sleepout or a cabin

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Have your plan ready

Under the NZ Building Regulations there is a lot of building work you can do yourself. The website for the Ministry of Business, Innovation and Employment (MBIE) is also helpful. Before checking whether you need a consent for your detached stand-alone building, you need to know:

dimensions of the project (height, total area)

location on property where the project will go

size of the property in square metres. The net floor area in a building is measured to the inside of the enclosing walls or posts/columns.

total area of your property currently covered by buildings

total area of your property currently covered by hard surfaces, for example concrete or paved areas. Depending on the size and design of your structure, the work (design and/or construction) may be required to be carried out by a Chartered Professional Engineer and/or Licensed Building Practitioner (LBP).