DIY Builds
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Can you mix gravel with quikrete?

Evenly spread 3 to 4 inches of QUIKRETE All Purpose Gravel and then level the gravel. Compact the gravel base using a tamper. TIP: a solid sub-base will help prevent erosion and slab settling. Dampen the gravel base using a garden hose to prevent shrinkage cracking especially in hot temperatures.

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HOW-TO VIDEOS

A great way to view and understand your building or repair project before you get started. Find out just about everything you need to know by watching the video below. Pouring & Finishing Concrete Slabs Concrete is one of the most economical, versatile and durable building materials available. Build a sidewalk, patio, or floor with QUIKRETE concrete mixes no matter your skill level. Project Instructions Shopping List

Project Instructions

When working with cement-based products, always wear eye protection and waterproof gloves.

Step 1

Prior to placing concrete forms:

Construct the form with 2x4 or 2x6 lumber and secure in place by wood stakes and deck screws. Excavate the slab area to a depth of about 7 inches, allowing 3 inches for a gravel base and 4 inches for concrete.

Step 2

Check the forms for level (¼ inch for every 12 feet is sufficient to allow for rain run-off). Patio and sidewalk forms should slope evenly away from structures.

Step 3

Evenly spread 3 to 4 inches of QUIKRETE All Purpose Gravel and then level the gravel.

Step 4

Compact the gravel base using a tamper.

TIP: a solid sub-base will help prevent erosion and slab settling.

Step 5

Dampen the gravel base using a garden hose to prevent shrinkage cracking especially in hot temperatures.

Step 6

Pour the concrete mix in evenly placed leads; the top of the concrete mounds should be about 2 to 3 inches above the forms before leveling.

Step 7

Consolidate and distribute the concrete evenly using a hoe. The surface of the concrete should be relatively flat and slightly above the form.

Step 8

Screed the concrete using a straight 2x4 by moving the board back and forth across the surface of the concrete in a sawing motion to remove the excess concrete and smooth the surface.

Step 9

Step 10

Once the concrete has lost its sheen, smooth the concrete surface using a wood float in an arching motion. NOTE: use a stiff-bristle broom to create a non-slip broom finish (all broom strokes should be made in the same direction).

Step 11

Cut in control joints using a groover and straight-edge (a 4-inch thick slab will require control joints a minimum of every 10 feet in each direction). NOTE: control joints should be cut a minimum of ¼ the depth of the slab.

Step 12

Use an edging tool to consolidate and shape the edges of the slab. Several passes should be made in each direction for a smooth finish.

Step 13

Freshly placed concrete should be water cured for a minimum of 3 to 5 days with a fine water mist. TIP: water curing can be eliminated by applying QUIKRETE Acrylic Concrete Cure & Seal immediately after finishing the concrete. Acrylic Cure & Seal can be applied with a roller, garden sprayer or a brush.

Shopping List

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There are five primary methods for securing sheds to the ground without concrete. Looping a cabled anchor around a ground frame. Looping a cabled anchor over an inside structural member. Bolting a cabled anchor to the outside of the shed.

There are five primary methods for securing sheds to the ground without concrete. Looping a cabled anchor around a ground frame. Looping a cabled anchor over an inside structural member. Bolting a cabled anchor to the outside of the shed. Using large Penetrator anchors under the ground frame for both support (replacing footings) and as a hold-down. Using smaller Penetrator anchors with L-brackets for securing sheds into asphalt and for temporary building installations. The specific method, and the number and placement of anchors, will depend upon shed size, soil conditions, and your preference. If a larger shed needs support as well as hold-down (requires footings), the large Penetrators can provide both functions with the same anchor. The largest (46") can replace poured concrete as an easier, faster, equally effective, and less expensive alternative. For the best holding strength, anchors should be installed at a minimum spacing equal to the depth of the anchor, in order to avoid each other’s “cone of soil” — the region of soil that contributes to an anchor’s holding strength. This applies to both cabled anchors and Penetrator (screw-type) anchors.

Drive rod and sledge or demolition hammer for cabled anchors.

Impact wrench or power take-off (PTO) for Penetrator anchors.

Depending on your preferred method, you’ll need the following tools for installation:

For complete instructions, download the Shed Anchor Installation PDF.

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