DIY Builds
DIY Builds
Photo: Jonnas Duarte
They range from 2-by-6s to 2-by-12s in most houses, depending on their span and the load that must be carried, and they normally are spaced on 16-inch centers. An important thing to know about joists is that they usually run in the same direction throughout a house.
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Finding concealed wall studs or ceiling joists is a key part of many home-improvement projects, but do-it-yourselfers often find the search frustrating. The existing structural members are needed for support in such projects as hanging heavy-duty shelving, installing a ceiling fan or chandelier, and installing new electrical wiring or a new interior partition. Several special tools are available to help locate structural parts, but some seat-of-the-pants methods frequently work as well as or better than the high-tech systems. Before discussing specific search methods, however, some basic information will be helpful. Studs are the vertical timbers used to frame walls of most houses. Normally they are 2-by-4s, although 2-by-6s are used in some construction. Studs normally are spaced on 16-inch centers, but there are exceptions and variations; 24-inch centers may be used in some houses. Studs are used in virtually all interior or partition walls, and also in the exterior shells of wood-framework housing. Houses with exterior walls of concrete blocks, bricks or other types of masonry often don't have studs in those walls, although in some cases the masonry is only a veneer and the insides of the walls are studded, insulated and finished much the same as frame walls. In addition to the vertical studs, many frame walls contain horizontal structural members, called bridging or fire-stops, running between studs. Joists are horizontal structural members used to support floors and ceilings. They range from 2-by-6s to 2-by-12s in most houses, depending on their span and the load that must be carried, and they normally are spaced on 16-inch centers. An important thing to know about joists is that they usually run in the same direction throughout a house. If the visible joists in a basement or attic run east to west, for example, you can be fairly certain the invisible joists under the bedroom floor also run east to west. Once one stud or joist has been found, it is sometimes possible to find others simply by measuring laterally 16 inches from the center of the known stud or joist. Here is a rundown of methods available to do-it-yourselfers who set out to find the location of studs or joists: -- Electronic stud finder. This is the newest and most expensive (up to $25) tool for finding structural members. Unfortunately, the tool is far from foolproof. Most electronic finders work by detecting the difference in mass of a stud or joist and the hollow wall spaces beside it. An electronic finder tested on several types of walls and ceilings was found extremely accurate on surfaces covered with gypsum wallboard or other thin coverings such as wood paneling. However, the finder proved useless on walls covered with a thick coat of plaster. It could not detect furring strips on a masonry wall. -- Magnetic stud finder. This tool usually sells for less than $5 and consists of a small, swiveling magnet that also serves as a pointer. The magnet reacts when the tool is moved over concealed nails or other ferrous metal.
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Theoretically, a magnetic finder finds studs by pinpointing the location of nails used to attach studs to the horizontal plates above and below them or by detecting nails used to attach gypsum-board panels to the studs. Magnetic stud finders are useful but have limitations. The magnet will react as quickly to an iron water pipe as it will to nails, and thick coverings such as plaster reduce the sensitivity of the magnet. -- Thump-and-listen method. This system consists of thumping the surface with the knuckles, the handle of a screwdriver or a small mallet, and listening for the difference in sound between solid and hollow areas. The solid area contains the stud or joist. This is a hit-or-miss system at best. -- Drill-and-hope method. This system can be used in conjunction with thump-and-listen or a magnetic or electronic finder. Drill a very small hole in the wall or ceiling in the area where a stud or joist is believed to be located. A 1/16-inch bit, or even 1/32-inch bit, is adequate. If the bit strikes solid wood after penetrating the covering of the wall, a stud or joist has been found. If hollow space greets the bit, move the drill laterally a little and try again. It's best to drill the holes fairly close to the floor, where they are not so visible. Mistakes can be corrected with a little spackling compound. -- Light-and-sight method. Darken the room and hold a flashlight or other bright light close to the wall or ceiling at one end of the room. Shine the light at a slight angle so it plays along the surface of the wall or ceiling. In some cases the light-and-shadow effect will reveal a waviness in which the studs or joists will stand out like ribs. Have a helper mark the locations. -- Peek behind the baseboard. In homes with deep baseboards, studs sometimes can be located by removing a section of baseboard. Nails or unfinished gypsum-board joints, indicating the presence of a stud, sometimes are visible. -- Electrical clues. Switches and outlets generally are attached to studs or other structural members. It sometimes is possible to find a stud by removing the cover of the electrical box and checking behind the opening in the wall covering. Be sure to turn off the electricity before probing the cavity.
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