DIY Builds
Photo by ROMAN ODINTSOV Pexels Logo Photo: ROMAN ODINTSOV

Do shed base need to be perfectly level?

Some landscapers may recommend putting a slope on the base for drainage, but the base itself needs to be completely level - the base does not necessarily have to be any larger than floor of the shed. Paving slabs must be laid properly and not just put straight onto soil or grass.

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Does foam rubber make good insulation?

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Can I build my own shed?
Can I build my own shed?

Yes, with the right plans you can build your dream shed.

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Base Requirements

We cannot stress enough the importance of putting your new Albany building onto a solid, flat, level foundation. Get it right and your building will fit together perfectly and last for years. Get it wrong and you could have problems with assembly, the shed will not last nearly as long and the doors may not close properly. Your local retailer may be able to offer a base-laying service or recommend someone who can.

Key Points You need a solid, flat, level base

You need sufficient room around the building for assembly and maintenance

You need to make sure you have suitable access for the panels to get to the base

Consider rainwater run-off

Floor plans are available for all of our standard models, which can sometimes help in constructing the base. Please specify on order if your base requires the direction of the floor joists to adhere to the floor plan as this can be subject to change

Suitable bases

We recommend paving slabs or concrete, especially for larger buildings. Some landscapers may recommend putting a slope on the base for drainage, but the base itself needs to be completely level - the base does not necessarily have to be any larger than floor of the shed. Paving slabs must be laid properly and not just put straight onto soil or grass. Decking is also usually suitable provided it is strong enough. On small to medium sized buildings, bearers / sleepers on a level gravel / shingle area can be suitable - see information on bearers below. A paving slab in each corner is not enough, even if they are level; the floor must be sufficiently supported throughout. Other examples of unsuitable bases include soil, grass, loose bricks, pallets, and any uneven surface.

Positioning of your building

Sizes listed are approximate and do not allow for roof overhang. It is normally best to allow plenty of room around the building - the minimum space required is usually 300mm (1ft) all the way around although 500mm is preferable. This is important and can make assembly easier as well as future re-treating and maintenance. Bear in mind the roofs do overhang the main body of the building so this must be taken into account, for example when a building is going into a more enclosed area. We understand that not everyone is looking to locate their shed in a large open area. With advice from us or your local retailer, usually a suitable solution can be found.

Bearers

We can supply bearers (timber posts) with your building if you wish to further raise the floor off the ground. If the floor of the shed is likely to come into contact with a lot of rainwater then bearers could significantly increase its life. The bearers would run in the opposite direction to the floor joists of the shed - if you are supplying your own bearers or sleepers then please check which way they will run and then specify on order that they must adhere to the stated direction as it can be subject to change. Normally bearers are not essential if you have a solid, flat, level base (other than for the reason previously mentioned), as the floor is on floor joists, which allow air underneath and keep the floorboards off the base. If your base is gravel / shingle then you should sit the shed on bearers / sleepers to give it a solid foundation and support the floor evenly. The gravel / shingle still needs to be level and shouldn't be too loose.

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What can I use instead of a hinge?

You can play with the relative strength of cardboard by using single or double-wall board. Single wall cardboard can be easily folded along with the flutes, and create a hinge. It's not the most effective hinge ever, but often that's all you need!

This method isn't in the video because it was added after the fact by one of my fellow tinkering facilitators at reDiscover Center, but it is well worth a mention. Binder clips are ideal for sturdier hinges. Hot glue the metal arms of the clip to the door and body of your material as shown in the photo. If you're using wood, you can also screw the arms in place with large washers to grab onto the metal loops at the end of the arms. We've used this technique in tinkering camp when we didn't have actual hinges available and it works well. One advantage of this method is that it's very good at snapping open and closed. Use larger or smaller binder clips depending on the weight of the door you're attaching. Enjoy, and let me know in the comments if you have any other techniques you like to use!

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