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Do you need an air gap with breathable membrane?

Do you need a 25mm air gap under the membrane? Although this is standard practice, it is not a requirement. The important thing is that you should not push the drape in the breather membrane (which allows any water getting through the tiles to channel down to the gutter) out.

tlxinsulation.co.uk - Top reasons to use Multifoil insulation with air gaps

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Top reasons to use Multifoil insulation with air gaps

2 Minute read

When used effectively, still air can be a very good insulator

In the below, we detail the different scenarios which dictate whether to use a ventilated or non ventilated air gap

Air gaps are confusing?

There’s an awful lot of confusion about air gaps. They’re integral to the way multifoil insulation works. Yet there’s still uncertainty about how big they should be, and whether or not to ventilate. Let’s start with the only situations (with between-rafter insulation) where you do actually need a 50mm ventilated air gap over the insulation…

(Solution) A loft conversion where there is a bitumen felt in place

A cold deck flat roof (Solution)

A boarded roof with plywood sheet providing structural strength over the rafters (Solution) What all these have in common is that there is a moisture-impermeable layer over the rafters that does not allow the escape of water vapour. And this would cause condensation if it were not ventilated. So BS5250 (Control of Condensation) advises that there should be a ventilated space beneath these impermeable layers, with free flow of air from eaves to ridge, plus a vapour barrier on the warm side to further prevent the escape of water vapour into the rafter space.

Non ventilated = increased thermal performance

In situations where you have a breather membrane in place over insulation between the rafters, although the tile batten space over the breather membrane needs to be ventilated, any gaps below should not be ventilated. This is because these unventilated gaps actually contribute to the thermal performance, as still air is a good insulator. Do you need a 25mm air gap under the membrane? Although this is standard practice, it is not a requirement. The important thing is that you should not push the drape in the breather membrane (which allows any water getting through the tiles to channel down to the gutter) out.

Why Multifoil insulation works in this context

Multifoil insulation works by being air-filled materials. It also works by having unventilated air gaps adjacent to their shiny outer surfaces to reflect heat. The thermal resistance (R value) of a layer of still air R can be calculated and used in a U value calculation just as with conventional insulation materials. If the air gap is narrow, then there won’t be convection currents transporting heat across it. Plus, if one of the adjacent surfaces is shiny then radiant heat will reflect. For example, a 20mm air gap next to the shiny outer surface of TLX Silver can have its R value enhanced by a factor of 3 (BS EN ISO 6946 calculation method). And the air comes free!

Unventilated is key

Don’t forget that you do need to make sure that the air gaps are unventilated. So in the case of TLX Silver multifoil insulation used under the rafters this means battening it securely to the wall, and sealing the joins with tape. With TLX Gold insulating breather membrane an upstand of insulation is required at the eaves to block off the gap between it and the insulation below.

In Summary:

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What is the best material to use for a vapor barrier?

Materials such as rigid foam insulation, reinforced plastics, aluminum, and stainless steel are relatively resistant to water vapor diffusion. These types of vapor retarders are usually mechanically fastened and sealed at the joints.

energy.gov - Vapor Barriers or Vapor Retarders - Department of Energy

In most U.S. climates, vapor barriers, or -- more accurately -- vapor diffusion retarders (vapor retarders), should be part of a moisture control strategy for a home. A vapor retarder is a material that reduces the rate at which water vapor can move through a material. The older term "vapor barrier" is still used even though "vapor retarder" is more accurate. The ability of a material to retard the diffusion of water vapor is measured in units known as "perms" or permeability. The International Residential Code describes three classes of water vapor retarders:

Class I vapor retarders (0.1 perms or less):

Glass

Sheet metal

Polyethylene sheet

Rubber membrane

Class II vapor retarders (greater than 0.1 perms and less than or equal to 1.0 perms):

Unfaced expanded or extruded polystyrene

30 pound asphalt coated paper

Plywood

Bitumen coated kraft paper

Class III vapor retarders (greater than 1.0 perms and less than or equal to 10 perms):

Gypsum board

Fiberglass insulation (unfaced)

Cellulose insulation

Board lumber

Concrete block

Brick

15-pound asphalt coated paper

House wrap

Vapor retarders can help control moisture in:

Basements

Ceilings

Crawlspaces

Floors

Slab-on-grade foundations

Walls

Effective moisture control in these areas and throughout a home must also include air-sealing gaps in the structure, not just the use of a vapor retarder. How, where, and whether you need a vapor retarder depends on the climate and the construction of your home.

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