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Does the foil side of insulation go in or out?

If you're wondering whether to put the foil side of foam insulation board shiny side in or out, consider whether you want to make the space inside warmer or cooler. If you want to make the space warmer, the foil should face inside so it can reflect radiant heat back into the room.

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Do self-tapping screws go through metal?

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What is the end of a driveway called?

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For proper installation of roof insulation, you need to do it before the roofing goes on. If you want to add foil insulation to an existing roof, you can still do it by going into the attic and stapling it to the undersides of the roof rafters. If you do this, the shiny side of the insulation still goes up, and the rafters automatically create an air space between the insulation and the roofing. Foil insulation underlayment is recommended under a metal roof, and in most cases, the shiny side should be facing up, but there's a catch. Foil insulation is a radiant barrier, and it works by reflecting heat from the metal, but for it to do its job, there has to be a layer of air between the roofing and the foil. Some types of metal roofing are shaped to create this air space, but if you're installing a type that doesn't, you should construct a batten structure. The foil then goes under the battens. A radiant barrier can reduce the temperature in the attic by as much as 30 degrees. It also keeps attic-mounted air conditioning ducts cooler, which means more efficient and less costly operation of the air conditioning system. The radiant foil barrier reflects all that heat back into the air space between it and the roofing. When foil insulation is properly installed, the underside of the roof decking remains at or near the ambient temperature, even in full sun. This doesn't work, though, if you install the radiant barrier upside down – that is, with the shiny side facing down. If you do that, the barrier absorbs the heat and radiates it into the attic instead of back toward the roof. When sunlight impinges directly on a metal roof, it drives the temperature of the metal as high as 180 degrees Fahrenheit. In the absence of a foil insulation barrier, the underside of the roof radiates all the heat directly into the attic. The attic overheats, the house becomes warmer and your air conditioning bill goes through the roof. Foam insulation board also comes with a foil backing, and when the foil is just on one side of the board, you have a decision to make regarding its orientation. If you're wondering whether to put the foil side of foam insulation board shiny side in or out, consider whether you want to make the space inside warmer or cooler. If you want to make the space warmer, the foil should face inside so it can reflect radiant heat back into the room. Bubble foil insulation adds a layer of insulating air to the radiant barrier provided by the foil. This product, like sheet foil, should be installed with the foil side facing the metal roofing, but there is one qualifier. If the space you're insulating is habitually too cold, you might want to turn the shiny side toward the living area to create more warmth. You would do this, for example, when insulating the walls of a finished basement.

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Roofers typically use one of a number of batten configurations. The battens can run parallel to the roof ridge or diagonally between the ridge and drip edge. To ensure that air can circulate, it's important to leave a 2- to 3-inch gap between the ends of the batten boards. Some batten structures consist of two layers, one perpendicular to the ridge and the top layer parallel to it. In this type of double-layer structure, it's permissible to lay the foil insulation between the layers. Remember that there has to be an air space between the foil and the roofing. Most metal corrugated roofing automatically provides this air space. If the corrugations are such that only about 20 percent of the material is in contact with the roof, it's fine to lay corrugated roofing directly on the foil. If you're installing flat roofing or metal tiles, however, you need to construct a batten structure on top of the foil. When installing a new roof or redoing an existing one, the roof decking goes on first. This is followed by a moisture barrier, which is typically #30 or heavier roofing felt or tar paper. The foil insulation goes on top of the moisture barrier, followed by the roof covering. If you use bubble foil or rigid foam insulation, it also goes on top of the moisture barrier. Foam insulation comes in sheets that you have to butt together on the roof. After securing these with appropriate fasteners, you need to tape the edges with foil tape. Tape isn't necessary when installing foil insulation. To install foil insulation, roll it out parallel to the ridge and cut it with a utility knife, starting at the drip edge and working your way up. Overlap seams by about 3 inches. Secure the barrier to the roof deck with staples to prevent it from blowing off until you attach the battens and the roofing. Work on cloudy days or during times of the day when the roof is cool. Carry all your tools with you to minimize the number of times you have to go up and down the ladder. Wear rubber-soled shoes and use a harness if necessary. Never work on a roof that feels too steep for comfort. Hire professional roofers instead. Always have a helper to spot you in case something goes wrong.

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If you're doing your own roof installation, you won't have any trouble installing a radiant barrier, but there are a few things you should remember. They will help you complete the job correctly and safely: You can add insulation to an existing metal roof by going into the attic and stapling a foil barrier to the rafters. If the shiny side of the barrier faces the roofing, hot air will circulate in the space between the rafters and naturally exit through the roof vent. This scheme works best if the house has a ridge vent that spans the length of the roof. For other systems, it may be necessary to drill holes in the rafters to allow air to flow toward the vents. Install the barrier by stretching it across the rafters from one end of the attic to the other and stapling it to the rafter faces. Work from the ridge toward the wall plates, overlapping the sheets by 2 inches and being careful not to cover soffit vents, light fixtures or switches.

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