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How deep does an electrical line have to be buried?

36 inches (c) Direct Buried Cables. Direct buried cables or cables in flexible nonmetallic enclosures shall be installed at a depth of at least 36 inches.

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This information is provided free of charge by the Department of Industrial Relations from its web site at www.dir.ca.gov . These regulations are for the convenience of the user and no representation or warranty is made that the information is current or accurate. See full disclaimer at https://www.dir.ca.gov/od_pub/disclaimer.html

Subchapter 5. Electrical Safety Orders

Group 2. High-Voltage Electrical Safety Orders

Article 19. Outdoor Wiring (Formerly Article 68)

§2830. Insulated Conductors.

(a) General. Insulated cables shall be of a type suitable for the voltage and service conditions. All cables installed underground shall have a grounded metallic sheath, shield, or a bare concentric grounded conductor, or shall be installed in grounded metallic conduit.

(Title 24, Part 3, Section 3-710-88(a).)

(b) Cable Installed in Buildings. Where installed in buildings, cables energized above 35,000 volts shall be encased in at least 3 inches of concrete or equivalent fire-resistant material.

(Title 24, Part 3, Section 3-710-88(c).)

(c) Direct Buried Cables. Direct buried cables or cables in flexible nonmetallic enclosures shall be installed at a depth of at least 36 inches. Lesser depths shall be permitted to be employed if the cable is armored with a minimum of No. 12 BWG steel wire closely wound or two layers of steel tape each at least 0.020 inch thick, or if the cable is protected by a layer of concrete at least 3 inches thick above the cable. EXCEPTION: Lesser depths than those listed are permitted where cables rise for terminations and splices or where access is otherwise required.

(Title 24, Part 3, Section 3-710-88(c).)

(d) Identification. Cables shall be labeled at all circuit terminals, sectionalizing points, vaults, rooms, etc. The labels shall, as a minimum, show phase and circuit designation and nearest sectionalizing points.

(1) Changes in labeling shall be made concurrently with changes in circuit.

(Title 24, Part 3, Section 3-710-88(d).)

(e) Neutral Conductor. The size and insulation of neutral conductors shall be in accordance with Section 2818.

(Title 24, Part 3, Section 3-710-88(e).)

(f) Shielding. All cables normally operated above 5,000 volts shall have insulation shielding, except that shielding shall not be required for series street lighting circuits operating at less than 7,500 volts. Metallic shielding at terminations shall be effectively grounded. If shielding is sectionalized, each section shall be effectively grounded.

(Title 24, Part 3, Section 3-310-61.)

(g) Terminations. Cable terminations shall be suitable for the voltage and service conditions.

(Title 24, Part 3, Section 3-710-3(c).)

NOTE: Authority cited: Section 142.3, Labor Code. Reference: Section 142.3, Labor Code; and Section 18943(c), Health and Safety Code.

HISTORY

1. Editorial correction filed 11-2-83 (Register 83, No. 45).

2. Editorial correction of subsection (e) filed 11-3-83 (Register 83, No. 45).

3. Amendment filed 12-10-87; operative 1-9-88 (Register 88, No. 1).

Go Back to Article 19 Table of Contents

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If the toilet keeps running or runs intermittently, you're not getting a good seal. Try a different flapper if the toilet won't stop running. If you just can't find a flapper that seals, consider replacing the entire toilet overflow tube/flapper. On most toilets (two-piece), this means removing the tank.

Introduction Learn the simple four-step strategy that solves 95 percent of toilet flush problems. Stop water from constantly running, give a wimpy flush a boost, and solve other common problems quickly and easily.

How to Stop a Toilet From Running

Overview

The basics of how a toilet works hasn’t changed much in the last 80+ years. After a flush, water fills a tank, lifting a float that shuts off the water when it reaches a certain level. A lever still opens a flapper to cause the flush, falling back into place when the water level drops. So, it should come as no surprise that we still have to deal with the same common flush problems from time to time. Sometimes the flush isn’t powerful enough, sometimes the toilet keeps running, and sometimes the bowl doesn’t refill. The good news is that most of these problems are easy to fix, without having to replace a toilet. You can complete the first three steps in five minutes. That’ll solve most problems. The fourth step is usually easy too, but not always. More on this later. These steps work for most toilets but not for pressure-assist models. Here’s what to do if your toilet won’t stop running.

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