How do you run electricity outside?

The quickest way to extend power outdoors is to install a receptacle back-to-back with one inside the house. You also can drill through the wall from a basement or crawlspace and attach a receptacle on the side of a house using an extension ring.

bhg.com - How to Extend Power Outdoors - Better Homes & Gardens

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If you've ever twisted extension cords from an indoor outlet to your yard, these outdoor electricity tips are for you. Installing outdoor power outlets isn't as difficult as it sounds. The quickest way to extend power outdoors is to install a receptacle back-to-back with one inside the house. You also can drill through the wall from a basement or crawlspace and attach a receptacle on the side of a house using an extension ring. You'll want to position an outdoor receptacle at least 16 inches above the ground. An in-use cover increases protection from the weather. A simple wooden box built around it shields it from bumps by the lawn mower or kids at play. Outdoor receptacles must be GFCI-protected. Check local codes for approved cable, conduit, and boxes. Expect to spend about 2 hours installing a new outdoor receptacle with an extension ring and in-use cover. You'll also need to spend time cutting a pathway for the cable, and patching walls. Before you begin, check to make sure the new service won't overload the circuit.

Step 1: Find Cable Path

Find the easiest path for cable to reach an outside wall, perhaps through a basement or crawlspace. Use a long drill bit to drill a locator hole. If the location is inconvenient or does not satisfy code, install an LB fitting rather than a receptacle to run power elsewhere.

Step 2: Install Box

Using a reciprocating saw or keyhole saw, cut a hole for a remodel box. Run cable through the hole and into a remodel box. Install the box and add an extension ring and a terminal adapter if using PVC.

Step 3: Run Pipe

Beneath the box dig a trench deep enough to satisfy local codes. Call before you dig. Using PVC or rigid metal conduit, attach a length of pipe to a sweep. Cut the pipe to fit, attach it, and anchor the conduit with straps. Editor's Tip: To install metal conduit so it is watertight, use rigid conduit with threaded fittings or IMC conduit with compression fittings.

Step 4: Connect Wires

Shut off power to the circuit. Connect the black and white wires from the power source to the LINE terminals of a GFCI receptacle. After you run cable for the new service, connect those wires to the LOAD terminals so the new service is GFCI-protected. Connect the power source.

Step 5: Install a Cover

Install an in-use cover, which protects the receptacle from moisture even when a cord is plugged in. Editor's Tip: Once you have installed an outdoor receptacle with extension ring, you can run cable for lights or additional receptacles.

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More Outdoor Power Methods

How to Install Without a Receptacle

To make the transition from indoor to outdoor wiring, use an LB fitting. Essentially a watertight pulling elbow, it is ideal for connecting to conduit.

How to Use Back-to-Back Wiring

One way to bring power outdoors is with back-to-back receptacles. Shut off power, pull out an indoor receptacle, and drill a locator hole through the wall to the outside.

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Does a shed need a ground rod?

You're not required to install any rods but you are required to connect to a GES or a single electrode is none are present. A single rod needs to be 25 Ω or less to qualify as an electrode or two rods.

forums.mikeholt.com - Ground rod installation for shed building required or not?

hbiss said: I agree with Larry. Does anybody know what year the Code was changed to allow two ground rods if a single is more than 25Ω ?

-Hal Click to expand...

Mentioning of 25 ohms and additional electrodes if over 25 ohms goes back a long way AFAIK. Oldest code book I have is 1987 and that is mentioned in there.What did change somewhat more recently is in 2011 they rewrote things.Before 2011 it always said something to the effect that if it didn't have a resistance of 25 ohms or less you needed to provide an additional electrode. 2011 and after it says you must have an additional electrode, but then they added an exception that says if a single electrode has resistance of 25 ohms or less the additional electrode is not required.This ultimately eliminated having someone say "I'm not certain if my rod is 25 ohms or less" and not driving a second rod. Now with the wording like it is, you must use a second electrode unless you prove the first is 25 ohms or less.I know most everyone around these parts only drove one rod never measured the resistance and moved on until that change in 2011. Now it is simpler and even less expensive to just drive two rods than to mess with proving the first one is low enough resistance.