DIY Builds
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How many footings do I need for a 8x10 shed?

4 shed footings There is no hard-and-fast answer, but a good rule of thumb (if using concrete foundation piers) is one shed footing every 8-10 feet. That means an 8×10 shed should have 4 shed footings (if footings are required) while a 16×40 shed should have about 15 shed footings.

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Footing Requirements for a Shed

1. Footing Requirements by Shed Size

This may be the single most important shed footing factor. Many local governments in our region divide sheds into the following size categories:

Less than 100 square feet

Sheds under 100 sq ft (or 200 sq ft in some locations) often require no footers whatsoever. Very small sheds like these have a low risk of sinking or buckling. Even if they do, any harm caused is likely to be insignificant. (A shed foundation can still increase the longevity of a small shed; you can read more about whether your shed needs a foundation here.)

Between 100 and 600 square feet

Sheds in this range often do not require “frost-proof” foundations but may be required to have a stone pad or shallow footers at 12” deep. For example, 12×16 shed foundation footers may not be required, but some type of gravel shed foundation would likely be advisable.

Over 600 square feet

Larger sheds like these typically require “frost protection”, aka shed footings that extend below the local frost line. Some locales make an exception to the footer depth requirement if the building is placed on a concrete slab.

2. Footing Requirements by Shed Wall Height

Height is another significant factor as it helps to determine how much weight the shed footers will be supporting per square foot. Note that for these purposes, shed heights are typically measured at the wall (or “eave”) height rather than the height at the roof peak. Sheds are often divided by height as follows:

Less than 10’ high

Sheds with walls under 10’ (or 12’ in some locales) may not require footings of any kind (although this is usually tied to a square footage requirement as well). If the shed includes a built-in floor, some municipalities allow them to be placed directly on a gravel pad.

Over 10’ high

Sheds over 10’ in height (or 12’ in some municipalities) often require footings of some type. Additionally, the local government may require both a zoning and construction permit for accessory buildings of this size. For example, barn shed footings would likely be required if the building contains a loft area or a second story.

3. Footing Requirements by Shed Utilities

Footings may be required if a building will be connected to any type of utility service. This includes electric, gas, oil, and/or sewer. In the photo above, an electrical conduit was installed as part of the shed footing/shed foundation installation; it will be connected to the shed when it is delivered. A utility connection can also affect whether a construction permit is required for the shed. This makes sense since the repercussions of a sinking shed are greater if it also runs the risk of rupturing or exposing a utility line.

4. Footing Requirements by Shed Use

If a shed will be used for habitation or any other human activity, shed footings may be required. In at least one case, a township noted that frost-depth shed footings were not required if “the building presents a low hazard to human life in the event of failure”. So if someone asks whether footers are necessary for an implement shed, the likely answer is “no”. However, shed footings are a good idea if an outbuilding will be used as a workshop, she shed, or office (as shown above). Here are links to shed footing regulations from several municipalities that you can refer to for ideas of what the typical requirements look like:

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Should I wet gravel before pouring concrete?

Show activity on this post. No, it is more likely to crack when concrete is poured on a dry surface. Hence, you better moisten a dry ground surface to be poured with concrete to avoid cracking. Save this answer.

Civil engineer here. The concrete needs to stay wet in order to cure properly. As noted before, concrete doesn't dry out to harden, it cures through a chemical reaction that needs water to facilitate the reaction. If the ground is dry, the ground will absorb moisture from the concrete and it won't cure properly. The ground should be very moist and compacted as well as you can manage. Also, wet clay is notoriously weak and you may end up with uneven support under the concrete, which will then lead to it cracking and settling after it's cured. Hard to say without seeing it but if you can remove as much clay from beneath the concrete slab, you'll have less chance of it settling and cracking. This is especially true if the clay is expansive. It will expand when wet and shrink when dry and your concrete slab will be a disaster. Best to get as much clay removed as possible, compact the sub-grade evenly, and make sure to water the ground before placing the concrete. Have you thought about proper joints? Concrete will crack. If you can get it to crack along a joint, no one will see it. Look at some professionally done concrete flatwork and you'll see what I mean. Good luck.

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