How tall does a garage need to be for a 2-post lift?

11 feet If you want to install a typical 2-post or 4-post lift in your garage, you need a ceiling that's higher than 11 feet. While you can get a 2- or 4-post lift that works with a lower ceiling, almost all these lifts are not ANSI certified.

kwik-lift.com - What You Need To Know About Car Lift Height Requirements

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A car lift at home is something pretty much every mechanic, car enthusiast, or DIYer aspires to own. Thankfully, home car lifts exist. This article has all the information you need about the height requirements for home car lifts. It includes the required height of your garage ceiling, what to look for in a low rise car lift, and more.

How Tall Does My Garage Ceiling Need to be to Accommodate a Car Lift?

If you want to install a typical 2-post or 4-post lift in your garage, you need a ceiling that’s higher than 11 feet. While you can get a 2- or 4-post lift that works with a lower ceiling, almost all these lifts are not ANSI certified. This means there’s no official validation of either their capabilities or their safety. Don’t let this discourage you if your garage is less than 11 feet tall, though. You can always use a low rise lift like the Kwik-Lift (or various entry-level hydraulic lifts). These lifts only lift a car 18-20 inches off the ground. So they work just fine with a garage ceiling that’s 8 to 10 feet tall, which is typical for most home garages).

What Should I Look For in a Low Rise Car Lift?

Basically, a low rise car lift works great in a garage with a ceiling height of 10 feet or less. Not all low rise car lifts are safe or practical to use, though. For example, many scissor-style hydraulic lifts are too tall to fit underneath a vehicle with low ground clearance. And they aren’t always safe to work underneath (read more about this here). Each type of low rise car lift comes with its own set of pros and cons (read more about the pros and cons here). At the very least, you want a low rise car lift that:

Is sturdy and safe to use

Offers a good amount of lift to give you enough room to work underneath the car

Can fit underneath a car with low ground clearance

Is able to support classic cars without designated jack points

Doesn’t need much maintenance

Offers unrestricted access underneath the car

How Much Lift Do I Need to Be Able to Work Under My Car?

You need 24-30″ of distance between the floor and the bottom of your vehicle to work comfortably underneath it. This is enough space for someone to easily roll under their vehicle on a creeper. It is also enough space to safely and comfortably raise or lower a transmission, an axle, a fuel tank, or another large part. Keep in mind that not all lifts that advertise a certain amount of lift are created equal. For example, both the Kwik-Lift and the typical scissor-style entry level lift offer a 20” lift. But you get more ground clearance with a Kwik-Lift because it lifts a car by its tires. By comparison, a typical scissor-style entry level lift supports a car by its designated jack points. That means you’ll get a ground clearance of only 20 inches with a typical scissor-style entry level lift while you’ll get about 30 inches with a Kwik-Lift. Got any more questions that were not addressed in this article? Feel free to contact us. We’ll be happy to answer any questions you may have about having a car lift in your home garage!

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How do you anchor a plastic shed without concrete?

How to Anchor a Shed to the Ground Without Concrete Looping a cabled anchor around a ground frame. Looping a cabled anchor over an inside structural member. Bolting a cabled anchor to the outside of the shed. Using large Penetrator anchors under the ground frame for both support (replacing footings) and as a hold-down. More items... •

americanearthanchors.com - How to Anchor a Shed to the Ground Without Concrete

There are five primary methods for securing sheds to the ground without concrete. Looping a cabled anchor around a ground frame. Looping a cabled anchor over an inside structural member. Bolting a cabled anchor to the outside of the shed. Using large Penetrator anchors under the ground frame for both support (replacing footings) and as a hold-down. Using smaller Penetrator anchors with L-brackets for securing sheds into asphalt and for temporary building installations. The specific method, and the number and placement of anchors, will depend upon shed size, soil conditions, and your preference. If a larger shed needs support as well as hold-down (requires footings), the large Penetrators can provide both functions with the same anchor. The largest (46") can replace poured concrete as an easier, faster, equally effective, and less expensive alternative. For the best holding strength, anchors should be installed at a minimum spacing equal to the depth of the anchor, in order to avoid each other’s “cone of soil” — the region of soil that contributes to an anchor’s holding strength. This applies to both cabled anchors and Penetrator (screw-type) anchors.

Drive rod and sledge or demolition hammer for cabled anchors.

Impact wrench or power take-off (PTO) for Penetrator anchors.

Depending on your preferred method, you’ll need the following tools for installation:

For complete instructions, download the Shed Anchor Installation PDF.

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