DIY Builds
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How thick should a garden shed slab be?

How thick does the concrete slab for my shed need to be? The most common thickness for a shed slab is 150mm (6 inch), with one layer of reinforcing mesh. This is adequate for any farm machinery such as tractors.

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If you think your shed will require a thicker slab, we can engineer a slab to suit whatever purpose.

How much will the concrete slab for my shed cost?

As a rough guide, a 150mm thick slab will cost between $90 – $120m² (in rural areas). Although a 125mm thick slab may be adequate in many situations, we believe it is best to go with a 150mm slab as the extra thickness is not overly expensive. For example, over 100m² of concrete slab, only another 2.5m³ of concrete is required to increase it from 125mm to 150mm thick – which only equates to about $500 difference! It also pays to keep in mind that thinning the slab out under workbenches and work areas requires more preparation, so it is normally more effort than it is worth. Repairing concrete slabs is also quite difficult, so ensure you don’t skimp on the thickness, as it could cost you more in the long term in maintenance – particularly in high-traffic machinery workshop sheds.

Should I install the concrete slab before or after my shed is built?

We generally recommend an ‘infill’ slab – which is poured after the shed is completed. This allows the concrete to form around the wall cladding at ground level and seal off the shed, helping to make the shed rodent-proof and help minimise the amount of dust and dirt that enters the shed. Installing an infill slab is a potential cost saving too, as this method can be easier for the concreter as it requires less boxing up.

Site and shed pad preparation

Remember that regardless of the slab thickness that you choose, it is essential to start with a well-prepared site. Your slab will only be as good as the foundation. You can learn about the top 10 tips for preparing a shed pad, in the video below.

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What is a three season porch?

A 3-season porch has windows with integrated screen systems and can be used for long periods throughout the year. They can shield you from outdoor elements such as rain, wind, sun and insects, but 3-season porches are not heated.

Three Season Porch

Sturdier than your average screened in porch or enclosed deck, a 3-season room addition is a good option for homeowners who want to enjoy outdoor living in style but who don’t need the living space available all year long. 3 season rooms are:

Used primarily spring, summer and fall

Often added to an existing deck or patio with a few structural changes

Separated from the rest of the house with an exterior door

Heated and cooled separately from the home, if at all

Not insulated

Generally completed within a week

A 3-season porch has windows with integrated screen systems and can be used for long periods throughout the year. They can shield you from outdoor elements such as rain, wind, sun and insects, but 3-season porches are not heated. Therefore, it is not a part of finished square footage, but is considered an enclosed space.

Economical

One of the biggest benefits to a three-season porch is the fact that it is very economical. Since it is not heated or cooled, it costs much less to build than a four-season porch or room addition would. It also does not require any additional money to heat or cool this space. Maintenance costs are very minimal as well.

Four Season Porch

A 4-season porch (also known as an all season room or sun room) is a room that functions as an interior room, but allows you to take in the views of the outdoors year-round. It has permanent heat and is included in the finished square footage of the home. A 4 season room, also referred to as all-season or year round room, is integrated into the construction of your home, existing roofline and exterior. This structure is:

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