Is it a good idea to insulate between rafters?

Insulating between rafters will do no good, because the attic should be ventilated, and the rafter insulation would be between two unheated spaces. You can add insulation to the floor; the more the merrier. Just don't put it in the eaves. Also, make sure the attic is well ventilated.

timesunion.com - Roof rafters shouldn't be insulated - Times Union

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Q: My girlfriend is convinced that we would save on heating expenses if we insulated between the roof rafters. My contention is that only the attic floor needs to be insulated because we only use the attic as storage space. Are there any advantages to insulating the roof rafters? Is moisture buildup in the attic an issue? Would insulating it increase the risk of ice dams?

A: You are correct and your girlfriend is wrong. Insulating between rafters will do no good, because the attic should be ventilated, and the rafter insulation would be between two unheated spaces. You can add insulation to the floor; the more the merrier. Just don't put it in the eaves. Also, make sure the attic is well ventilated. Cold roofs prevent ice dams. Moisture buildup in the attic is a concern because it can condense into water, often causing mold. Good ventilation, from soffit vents and a ridge vent, will stop that. Soffit vents are in the under part of the roof overhang. The only time when insulation is installed between rafters is when Icynene is used, and everything, except the attic floor, is insulated with Icynene. It is against traditional thought, but apparently it is effective. It is very expensive, and any payback from what you will save in fuel costs will take decades to accomplish.

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Q: My 60-year-old family room has two mildly warm heat ducts and one cool-air return, and the room is about 6 degrees cooler than the rest of the house. Why is that? Another pipe in the basement runs from the furnace to the chimney, and is very hot. Why is that?

A: First things first. That super-hot pipe is a smokestack, so leave it alone. You can heat the family room with a portable electric heater or a gas fireplace with a power exhaust right through the wall. If the family room is an addition, the cool room is due to a furnace that is too small to handle the extra space created by the addition. You could insulate those ducts with duct insulation, and that will help some.

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Q: My plumber is charging $1,500 to build a sump in my basement (a hole in the floor) and a pump. Isn't that kind of high?

A: No, not high, and in fact it's a good buy. You probably have no idea of what that job (and equipment) will cost, because there is nothing to compare it with. Let's suppose you bought a great pair of blue suede shoes, say in 1950 for $12. In 2010, you looked at a pair of shoes for $100 and were amazed at the high price. You simply did not take into account the natural progression (up) of material goods. It's just the way things work.

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Q: What is your opinion of composite wood for decking? Is there a brand you prefer? Or do you like natural wood?

A: Ah, it's nice to talk about something other than winter. There are many kinds of composite floorboards available since Trex came out with the first, using ground-up plastic bags and wood. Much of it is pretty good, but I have heard that it can get damaged-looking with small cracks. I think most of those complaints are from people who want a pristine deck. Perfect forever, that is. That is impossible no matter what you try. Yes, I like wood, partly because it (even Trex) can be treated with a semitransparent stain to refurbish it over the years. Pressure-treated also is good, if you use the 1-inch-thick deck boards.

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