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Is pressure treated wood safe for docks?

Q: Is it environmentally responsible to use pressure-treated wood to build a dock and swimming raft at our cottage? A: According to a number of jurisdictions across North America, yes, it is safe to use today's pressure-treated wood for docks, rafts and other water contact structures.

thestar.com - Pressure-treated wood fine for dock - Toronto Star
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Q: Is it environmentally responsible to use pressure-treated wood to build a dock and swimming raft at our cottage?

A: According to a number of jurisdictions across North America, yes, it is safe to use today's pressure-treated wood for docks, rafts and other water contact structures. The pressure-treated lumber you buy today does not contain arsenic, as it did up to four years ago. The active ingredient these days is an insoluble form of copper. Just the same, you might feel uneasy about pressure-treated lumber, and I can understand why. Things deemed safe by experts one day don't always remain that way the next. So if you have any concerns, consider using cedar. Most cottage country communities have small sawmills nearby that produce locally cut white cedar at reasonable prices. Composite lumber is also an excellent option for the top surface of your dock or swimming raft. Six years ago I built a raft this way and it's proven a fabulous success every summer since. The composite is rot proof, sliver free and offers reliable footing even when wet. Q: How can I return my hardwood stairs to their former glory? I just tore off carpeting, discovered some wonderful wood underneath and I don't want to reinstall a runner. A: Former glory is definitely worth aiming for with your stairs. It's not going to be easy, but if you use the right stripping, preparation and refinishing techniques, you'll never need to go back to a runner. Begin by vacuuming your stairs clean, then remove the bulk of the old varnish with a paint stripper. I find citrus-based formulations work well, especially in cases like yours where the old coating probably isn't thick. Next, you'll need to do sanding and it's going to take time and the right kind of tools. Start work with a 5-inch random orbit sander spinning a 120-grit disc on open areas of the stairs. You'll need to switch to a detail sander to get into the corners. These tools are made by a number of different manufacturers and they all include a triangular head designed to reach into tight spots. With all the close-quarters sanding you'll need to do, it makes sense to buy one of these tools rather than renting. After sanding all areas with a 120-grit abrasive, do it again with finer, 180-grit, then vacuum everything and prepare for refinishing.

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The type of finishing product you choose is critical, and I definitely do not recommend the approach typically used to finish floors. This is a combination of stain and film-forming urethane, and although it looks great when new, it looks bad when the surface starts to wear from foot traffic. The only way to restore it completely is with another horrendous sanding job – something you'll never want to do again. This is why you should considerfinishing your stairs with oil. Right now I'm preparing to oil a hardwood staircase I'm building because it's a finish that's so easy to renew. Initial application involves brushing on and wiping off four or five coats of oil. This seals the wood and offers a moderate amount of protection. As foot traffic inevitably begins to create visible wear, wipe on another coat or two of oil. The stairs will look as good as new. If you simply want to protect thewood without additional color, use polymerized tung oil or wipe-on polyurethane. If you'd like to darken the wood, choose a dark oil. My favourite is Deftoil. I buy both these oil products from Lee Valley Tools (leevalley.com; 800-267-8767).

Q: What size of belt sander should I buy for my home workshop? Does a 24-inch model have an advantage over a 21-inch?

A: You'll be quite happy with a 21-inch. This measurement refers to the belt circumference, and while 24-inch sanders are more aggressive and their belts last slightly longer, they're heavier and more expensive. Regardless of the size of sander you choose, be sure to buy a crepe rubber block. Hold it against the spinning surface of an old, clogged sanding belt and it'll remove most of the sawdust and resin fouling the surface. Crepe blocks are sometimes available at hardware stores and always at woodworking specialty retailers.

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thestar.com - Pressure-treated wood fine for dock - Toronto Star
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