Photo: Yan Krukau

Should floor joists be nailed or screwed?

Nails or screws both work fine for this. You might look at whether the subfloor (lumber or plywood) joints needed the additional splices for support. If the 2' splices are above the existing joist (which your description sounds like) they were installed in an attempt to level the floor due to sagging joists.

diy.stackexchange.com - Can screws be used on floor joists? - Home Improvement Stack Exchange

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Can you use screws to connect these 2ft pieces of wood to the joist as he did?

Sure thing. It's become very common over the last 5 years or so to use screws instead of nails for construction carpentry.

Can the screws handle the load?

Screw strength varies, but GRK R4™ screws are fairly commonly used and according to their ICC code approval report have a shear strength of 428 to 655 lbs (depending on screw diameter) per screw. Add up the number of screws holding up a board and that's the minimum amount that piece of joist can handle (there's friction between the boards, and that adds some strength - I don't know the physics to know how much additional). The GRK RSS™ "structural" screw's ICC approval report shows that they have a shear strength of 754 to 1231 pounds per screw. This is going to be more than enough to support these scabbed on floor joist sections. The odd thing to me is that your contractor put on short 2' sections of joist. Granted, lumber is a bit pricey these days, but the normal method of leveling a floor is to sister a full new joist in instead of little pieces. Usually an entire joist is out of kilter and it doesn't have little dips that need to be shored up. Because he did this, it's not surprising that the floor isn't particularly level. Since there's already a sub floor down, self-leveling compound may fix your problem, depending on how wavy the surface is. If the sub floor is screwed down, you may consider unscrewing it (much easier than pulling nails!), then unscrewing (again, much easier than pulling nails, thank goodness your contractor used screws, not nails) these joist scabs and look at reattaching them to provide an actually level surface. You may find that just moving one or two is sufficient to get your floor level enough for your purposes. You may need to redo the entire thing. NOTE: This isn't an ad for GRK screws. They happen to be plentiful at my local retailer and I've become fond of them, but I don't work for the company or any of their marketing firms. Just a happy customer.

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Can you build a shed floor with 2x4?

I have a shed built completely with 2x4s: studs, mud sills, top plates, and rafters. Of course, the "skin" is plywood and siding. For a shed you're generally okay with 24" centers, rather than 16". For your floor, since you're not using a concrete slab, you will probably want 16" centers.

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The place I work at has been ordering new machinery and it comes in with 2x4 frames. They are throwing the wood away! Anyhow, I can get all I want. So my question is how much of the shed can I do using only 2x4's? I see most bases of the shed are done with 2x8's or something along that line. I will be building it off the ground with blocks as I cannot afford a concrete slab at the moment. I would like to build more of a shop than a shed. Maybe 15x20? But my longest "free" wood is 12 ft. My current shed is a dirt floor. I could live with that if need be. My current shed is old school. I live in the country, so no certain requirements have to be met. Anyhow, the sheds bones are old utility poles. It's in an awkward spot, so I wanted to build a newer one in a different spot. The walls are tin. No plywood on the walls. Roof is tin as well. I'm just trying to see if the wood I get at work will be enough to cover 90% of the cost. I want 20ft long, so can I build 2 ten ft walls and join them together to make 20ft? I understand that may not be proper, but it's a shed not a house.

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