Photo: Jill Burrow

Should I caulk under drip edge?

Another place that should never be caulked is the space between the siding and the flashing above a window; this piece of flashing is often referred to as drip flashing, drip cap, or head flashing. Caulking this opening shut is a very common defect, even on new construction.

structuretech.com - Reuben's Quick Tip: Caulk Doesn't Belong Here, Part II

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Last week I blogged about not caulking at the base of storm windows, which is a simple no-brainer. Another place that should never be caulked is the space between the siding and the flashing above a window; this piece of flashing is often referred to as drip flashing, drip cap, or head flashing. Caulking this opening shut is a very common defect, even on new construction. Why not caulk here? The head flashing at the window provides a drainage plane for water that could potentially get in behind the siding; the head flashing allows the water to drain out above the top of the window. If the space between the flashing and the siding gets caulked shut, where will water go? It will get trapped behind the siding and potentially cause damage to the home. Some siding manufacturers already require this space to be left open, such as fiber-cement siding manufacturers. Unfortunately, this detail isn’t spelled out in any window installation instruction manuals, or if it is, I haven’t found them yet. I also haven’t found any vinyl siding manufacturers that specifically say “don’t caulk here“. For fiber-cement siding, it’s an installation defect. For just about any other type of siding, including vinyl, it’s a ‘best practice’ not to caulk here. Just wait though… I’m sure that the manufacturers of windows and other types of siding will catch up on this detail soon enough, and they’ll start explicitly telling you “don’t caulk here”. Installation instructions for windows are getting longer and more specific every year. Case in point: about ten years ago, Windsor Windows published a one page installation sheet; today it’s a ten page installation manual. Did the windows change significantly? No. Manufacturers are just doing their part to help prevent failures from improper installations. Is this really a defect? Well, technically no, not on all installations. It’s not a defect until the manufacturers put it in writing or it’s specified in the building code… but it sure isn’t wise.

Reuben Saltzman, Structure Tech Home Inspections – Email – Minneapolis Home Inspections

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Can you stand a shed on gravel?

Lawn, gravel or dirt are not suitable bases - It is not recommended that you build your new shed directly onto a lawn, bare ground or gravel. Not only can this result in subsidence and warping, but can also lead to damage from damp.

shedstore.co.uk - Guide: How to prepare your garden for a shed - Shedstore

So you've bought your new shed, you're now waiting for it to be delivered and you've considered where you would like to build it in your garden. Below you will find example of what to do and what not to do, when preparing your garden.

Have you prepared the ground ready to install your new shed onto?

When installing a timber shed you must ensure that you have a even and level surface onto which you can build it. This can be made using either concrete, garden slabs or even timber decking. Failing to prepare a level surface will lead to your shed warping, which can result in damaged timber or even broken windows. If you're using one of our shed bases you will still need to clear the area for rubble. It's also a good idea to lay a weed proof membranes, to prevent growth and eventual damage to your shed.

But I've paid for a shed installation service, do I still need to prepare my garden?

Yes.

Our installation teams will not clear your garden or lay a concrete surface for you. You will need to make sure that you have prepared the area in time for your delivery and installation.

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