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Should pressure treated posts be set in concrete?

With pressure-treated posts, the rot will be slow. We have three ways to solve the rotten post problem. First, the posts should be set on top of a bed of coarse gravel 3 to 6 inches deep, so the base of the post is in contact with the gravel. Concrete should be poured around the post - no concrete under the post.

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How do you secure a floating dock to land?
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Q: I have an older wood fence with rotten posts. In the last windstorm, part of it fell over. The fence boards are in good shape, so I'd like to reuse them. But, clearly new posts are required. I noticed a piece a few weeks ago about a leak in a garage wall that was attributed to a crack in the stucco, which I think was due to a gate post attached to the wall. You suggested that the crack and leak could be fixed but warned against attaching the new post to the house. Instead, the post could be set in concrete.

It seems to me that setting a wooden post in concrete creates what is essentially a cup that holds water and is an excellent way to rot the post prematurely. Am I all wet, or is there another way to avoid the rotten post problem?

A: Actually, your point is well taken. Simply setting the posts in concrete does create a condition that will accelerate rot in the bottom of the posts. With pressure-treated posts, the rot will be slow. We have three ways to solve the rotten post problem. First, the posts should be set on top of a bed of coarse gravel 3 to 6 inches deep, so the base of the post is in contact with the gravel. Concrete should be poured around the post - no concrete under the post. This allows any moisture that gets between the concrete and the bottom of the post to percolate through the gravel and away from the bottom of the post. The concrete at the top should be sloped away from the post to grade level to avoid water pooling around the base. We think a better way is to set the posts in brackets planted into the concrete. Simpson Strong-Tie Co. ( www.strongtie.com) makes a sturdy steel bracket that the posts are bolted to, keeping them an inch or so above ground level. This not only stops almost all water pooling at the base, but also makes it a simple job of unbolting the post when one needs to be replaced many years down the road. When attached to the post, the 2-by-4 wooden cross rails will be sturdy enough to hold the fence in place. The brackets and bolts should be oriented perpendicular to the fence to maintain the best stiffness in the post. When installing the bracket, use a spirit level to make sure it is plumb. Also use a string line to ensure a straight fence. A final option is to not use wood posts at all. Two-inch galvanized steel pipe makes a wonderful fence post. After the pipes/posts have been set and the concrete has dried overnight, galvanized steel brackets are used to bolt 2-by-4 wooden rails to the pipe/post. Wood fencing is then either nailed or screwed to these rails making for the finished fence. Again, when setting the pipe, a layer of gravel is best, and make sure to taper the concrete away from the tops of the posts.

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What are the signs of over watering tomato plants?

Overwatered plants may have wilted or yellowed stems and leaves, or the leaves might develop bumps and blisters or fall off entirely if plants continue to get too much water. Another way to tell overwatered plants from underwatered ones, once the case is severe enough, is to check the roots.

QUESTION: What are the signs of overwatering tomato plants?

ANSWER: Overwatered tomato plants can look a lot like underwatered plants, so if you are having a hard time telling the difference, pay attention to whether you see these signs when the soil around plants is still moist. Overwatered plants may have wilted or yellowed stems and leaves, or the leaves might develop bumps and blisters or fall off entirely if plants continue to get too much water. Another way to tell overwatered plants from underwatered ones, once the case is severe enough, is to check the roots. A plant that has received too much water for a long time may have roots that turn dark in color, in contrast to the pale color of healthy roots, or the roots may have a slimy texture. You can rescue an overwatered plant in some cases by gently pulling it up, shaking off excess dirt, and resting the roots on a stack of two or three newspapers. Leave the plant on the newspapers until much of the excess water has soaked up. Then plant it again in a container that just fits its roots, filling in around the plant with compost. If too much rain is the culprit, you can always hang a plastic sheet or tarp over an overwatered plant, removing the sheet when rainfall ceases.

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