Should you nail every hole in a joist hanger?

Avoid the temptation to leave some nail holes in each hanger unfilled, however much you are tired. Its best to rest a bit, than leaving few nail holes free. Never nail straight into the end grain, which would result in splitting the wood.

buildersmetalwork.com - Common Mistakes To Avoid when Installing Joist Hangers

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Common Mistakes To Avoid When Installing Joist Hangers

Wrong size hangers are used (either undersized or oversized),

The bearing surfaces are not to specifications,

The amount of hangers are not enough,

Wrong nailing,

Wrong type of nails

The hangers used in decking, stairs and trusses are often installed wrong, and this compromises their ability to ensure the integrity of the structure. Most often, this practice doesn't comply with the building code. It may appear to save time and money, if we take shortcuts, but in the long run, it would be costly - the unwanted repairs. Use correct nails. This line must be repeated like a mantra. Use correct nails. If not sure, ask an expert. Nails do matter. The length and size of nail is usually specified by the joist hanger manufacturer. Avoid the temptation to leave some nail holes in each hanger unfilled, however much you are tired. Its best to rest a bit, than leaving few nail holes free. Never nail straight into the end grain, which would result in splitting the wood. Nailing into the end grain would eventually lessen the nail's holding power, even if the wood didn't split, even if you can't see the split. Nail at 45 degrees.

For outdoors use hot-dipped galvanised nails.

Never use deck screws or drywall screws to install joist hangers.

Dont reuse joist hangers.

Dont modify them by cutting them shorter.

A joist or a truss must lie fully on the bearing. Don't leave gaps between the end of the joist and the beam, the truss and the wall plate. To install a sloped joist, such as a staircase beam, use a sloped base hanger. Don't use a standard hanger in this case, the timber beam's bearing in only on the edge of the hanger. Hanger height must equal at least 60% of joist height to achieve enough load bearing capacity and lateral stability of the connection.

Remember to use the exact amount of joist hangers as specified.

Never use undersized or oversized hangers.

Correct - Joist hanger is > 60% of joist height Incorrect - a gap is left Incorrect - undersized hanger

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How do you compact a sub-base without a compactor?

Tool-free method: Level it, walk on it, saturate it with low pressure water, wait an hour, walk on it again, saturate it again with low pressure water, wait a few hours, walk on it once more. If it still doesn't feel compacted, do more watering, waiting and walking.

diy.stackexchange.com - Manual methods to compact base for concrete?

I'm planning to pour a reinforced concrete pad and am looking for advice for how to compact the material underneath.

A plate compactor would work - but can I get by without one? For instance, if I tamp down the soil and later gravel with a 12' sledgehammer head, 4x4 post, or concrete block (etc.) would the results be acceptable?

Notes:

We have rocky clay soil, over which will be a base layer of gravel, and then the reinforced concrete. The soil is quite dry since this has been within the interior of the house for ~45 years.

The pad will be about 4x6 feet - not very large.

(I don't mind renting a compactor if that really is the best option but for a small project it seems worth considering alternates.) EDIT: Clearly I was assuming that a plate compactor was like the gold standard and other choices might be acceptable but inferior. But one answer has questioned that and it may be an erroneous assumption.

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