DIY Builds
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What happens if hole is too big for anchor?

Fill the hole with any liquid glue that can be used on wood (like Elmer's). Jam in several wood toothpicks until they're very snug and entirely fill the hole. Allow to dry completely, then snap off toothpick ends so they're flush with surface. Drive your screw through the repaired hole!

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NV: Thanks for this great question because so many of us will relate to it! A loose shelf, a wobbling curtain rod, a hanging by a thread coat rack – we’ve all been there! I especially love this question because it reminds me of a repair I’ve been meaning to get to for months! I have a little coat rack next to my side door that’s been increasingly loosening from the wall, and I had better fix it before the next pleasantly plump article I hang sends it crashing to the ground… so I’m off to do it, right now! So, dear reader, whether it’s your pilot hole that’s been drilled too large or existing anchor holes (in my case) that have loosened over time from weight/yanking, there are a few ways to correct this issue.

Here are your options!

Use Larger Anchors and Screws

Just use the existing holes, but tap in fatter anchors and accompanying screws. This was the easiest solution for my coat rack. Note: For my coat rack, I used toggle bolts (see below) – in my opinion the most secure anchor in this application. Also, the holes in the wooden plate of the rack needed to be widened slightly in order to accommodate the larger screws, which was as simple as using a drill bit, and matching the new screw size to make bigger holes.

Relocate the Hanging Article

If this approach makes sense within the space, just do a quick hole repair with some spackle, then re-drill your pilot holes either above or below (to the left or right) of the original location. To be sure you’re driving into a solid part of the wall/surface, give yourself about an inch distance away from the old hole… if it’s a gapping hole, more than that – use your judgment.

Through Wood, Fill-in With Toothpicks

This toothpick trick has been around forever and you don’t need any special products to get her done. Fill the hole with any liquid glue that can be used on wood (like Elmer’s). Jam in several wood toothpicks until they’re very snug and entirely fill the hole. Allow to dry completely, then snap off toothpick ends so they’re flush with surface.

Drive your screw through the repaired hole!

Note: if you’re hanging something heavy, it will be a good idea to use a slightly fatter and/or longer wood screw.

Let us know how it goes!

PS – For information on how to install all types of anchors, check out my previous Fix-it Friday column… “Anchors Aweigh!”

Got A DIY Question? Ask-The-Expert!

If you have a DIY home repair, maintenance or improvement question for Norma, now is your chance to ask-the-expert and have her answer. Your burning question may just be the “star” of an upcoming Fix-It Friday column. Fix-It Friday is an exclusive Women You Should Know® editorial series authored by seasoned veteran of home improvement, Norma Vally, the former host of Discovery Home Channel’s series “Toolbelt Diva” and a show on Sirius Satellite Radio by the same name. The weekly column is designed to inspire women – weekend warriors, aspiring handywomen, and even seasoned DIYers – to take on home repairs and maintenance projects with confidence and gusto.

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How do you anchor a storage shed to the ground?

How to Anchor a Shed to the Ground Without Concrete Looping a cabled anchor around a ground frame. Looping a cabled anchor over an inside structural member. Bolting a cabled anchor to the outside of the shed. Using large Penetrator anchors under the ground frame for both support (replacing footings) and as a hold-down. More items... •

There are five primary methods for securing sheds to the ground without concrete. Looping a cabled anchor around a ground frame. Looping a cabled anchor over an inside structural member. Bolting a cabled anchor to the outside of the shed. Using large Penetrator anchors under the ground frame for both support (replacing footings) and as a hold-down. Using smaller Penetrator anchors with L-brackets for securing sheds into asphalt and for temporary building installations. The specific method, and the number and placement of anchors, will depend upon shed size, soil conditions, and your preference. If a larger shed needs support as well as hold-down (requires footings), the large Penetrators can provide both functions with the same anchor. The largest (46") can replace poured concrete as an easier, faster, equally effective, and less expensive alternative. For the best holding strength, anchors should be installed at a minimum spacing equal to the depth of the anchor, in order to avoid each other’s “cone of soil” — the region of soil that contributes to an anchor’s holding strength. This applies to both cabled anchors and Penetrator (screw-type) anchors.

Drive rod and sledge or demolition hammer for cabled anchors.

Impact wrench or power take-off (PTO) for Penetrator anchors.

Depending on your preferred method, you’ll need the following tools for installation:

For complete instructions, download the Shed Anchor Installation PDF.

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