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What is a floating deck?

A floating deck is a deck that isn't attached to a building and they “float” above the ground. Generally, floating decks are low to the ground and don't require handrails or even staircases. They are sometimes called “grade-level” or “freestanding” decks because they're built just above the ground level, or grade.

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WHAT IS A FLOATING DECK?

A floating deck is a deck that isn’t attached to a building and they “float” above the ground. Generally, floating decks are low to the ground and don’t require handrails or even staircases. They are sometimes called “grade-level” or “freestanding” decks because they’re built just above the ground level, or grade. Floating decks are simple, attractive and relatively easy to build. Adding a floating deck to your backyard can provide a much-needed platform for patio furniture, a grill, a hammock and other backyard amenities.

BUILDING A FLOATING DECK: WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW

One of the biggest plusses of a floating deck is that you (probably) won’t need to get a permit to build it. Always check with your local building department for local regulations, but the International Residential Code says you won’t need a permit for your floating deck if your project meets the following criteria:

It takes up less than 200 square feet

It’s not more than 30 inches above the ground

It’s not attached to your house

It’s not in front of an egress door

A floating deck offers numerous advantages. In addition to not requiring a building permit, floating decks are far easier and faster to build than elevated decks. They also don’t require frost depth footings and don’t need handrails because they’re so close to the ground. Because a floating deck is ground level, repairing and maintaining them is relatively easy.

BEST WOOD FOR BUILDING A FLOATING DECK

Always use pressure-treated lumber to build a floating deck frame. If you can find ground contact pressure-treated lumber, that’s even better. The extra processing these boards go through protects them from deterioration, which is an additional threat because floating decks are so close to the ground. As for decking material, there are many kinds of lumber that work great, such as redwood and cedar. You can also use pressure-treated lumber or southern yellow pine for the decking. Composite decking material is also a popular choice thanks to its durability and low maintenance. It won’t bend, crack, splinter or warp, which are more reasons homeowners love it.

CARING FOR YOUR FLOATING DECK

If you want your deck to keep its color and texture, plan to pressure wash it every year. For wood decking, it’s best to follow a regular maintenance schedule to keep the wood looking great. Over time, all unsealed decks will turn gray and start to crack. Maintenance intervals will vary depending on the type of wood and climate. Generally, a deck should be sealed or stained every two to four years. Redwood and cedar tend to age better than other materials, but they will eventually fall victim to age. If you really want a low-maintenance floating deck, consider composite decking. With a little cleaning and light maintenance, the material will retain its original appearance for years.

PROFESSIONAL DECK INSTALLATION

When you hire Mr. Handyman for floating deck installation, you get a professional carpenter with an average 10 years’ experience. Request service today or call your local Mr. Handyman at (877) 685-1377. With Mosquito Joe, a few pests won’t spoil your deck experience. Mosquito Joe is part of the Neighborly® community of home services professionals. You can count on them for reliable mosquito and pest control.

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How do you attach a shed to the ground?

Bolting a cabled anchor to the outside of the shed. Using large Penetrator anchors under the ground frame for both support (replacing footings) and as a hold-down. Using smaller Penetrator anchors with L-brackets for securing sheds into asphalt and for temporary building installations.

There are five primary methods for securing sheds to the ground without concrete. Looping a cabled anchor around a ground frame. Looping a cabled anchor over an inside structural member. Bolting a cabled anchor to the outside of the shed. Using large Penetrator anchors under the ground frame for both support (replacing footings) and as a hold-down. Using smaller Penetrator anchors with L-brackets for securing sheds into asphalt and for temporary building installations. The specific method, and the number and placement of anchors, will depend upon shed size, soil conditions, and your preference. If a larger shed needs support as well as hold-down (requires footings), the large Penetrators can provide both functions with the same anchor. The largest (46") can replace poured concrete as an easier, faster, equally effective, and less expensive alternative. For the best holding strength, anchors should be installed at a minimum spacing equal to the depth of the anchor, in order to avoid each other’s “cone of soil” — the region of soil that contributes to an anchor’s holding strength. This applies to both cabled anchors and Penetrator (screw-type) anchors.

Drive rod and sledge or demolition hammer for cabled anchors.

Impact wrench or power take-off (PTO) for Penetrator anchors.

Depending on your preferred method, you’ll need the following tools for installation:

For complete instructions, download the Shed Anchor Installation PDF.

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