What materials do I need to build a 10x10 shed?

Material and Cut List FLOOR. 9 – 2×6 Pressure Treated Lumber 10′ (cut to 9′-9″) ... WALLS. 8 – 2×4 Lumber 8′ (cut to 7′-4 1/2″) ... SIDINGS. 10 – 4′ x 8′ Plywood Siding Panel T1-11 (cut to size) RAFTERS. 6 – 2×4 Lumber 12′ (cut to 11′-10 3/8″) ... ROOF. 8 – 2×4 Lumber 12′ (cut to 11′-8″) ... TRIM. ... HARDWARE. DOOR FRAME. More items...

buildblueprint.com - 10x10 Lean To Shed Plans - Build Blueprint

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Material and Cut List

FLOOR

9 – 2×6 Pressure Treated Lumber 10′ (cut to 9′-9″)

2 – 2×6 Pressure Treated Lumber 10′ (no cut)

3 – 4×4 Pressure Treated Lumber 10′ (no cut)

4 – 23/32″ Tongue and Groove Plywood 4′ x 8′ Sheet (cut to size)

WALLS

8 – 2×4 Lumber 8′ (cut to 7′-4 1/2″)

20 – 2×4 Lumber 6′ (cut to 5′-10″)

4 – 2×4 Lumber 10′ (cut to 9′-5 “)

4 – 2×4 Lumber 10′ (no cut)

SIDINGS

10 – 4′ x 8′ Plywood Siding Panel T1-11 (cut to size)

RAFTERS

6 – 2×4 Lumber 12′ (cut to 11′-10 3/8″)

4 – 2×4 Lumber 8′ (cut to size)

ROOF

8 – 2×4 Lumber 12′ (cut to 11′-8″)

3 – 2×4 Lumber 8′ (cut to size)

12 ft. Corrugated Steel Roof Panel (120SF)

TRIM

10 – 1×4 Lumber 8′ (cut to size)

HARDWARE

3 1/2″ Galvanized Steel Nails

2″ Deck Screws

2″ Galvanized Finishing Nails

1 1/2″ Drilling Roofing Screws

DOOR FRAME

2 – 2×4 Lumber 8′ (cut to 6′-5 3/4″)

2 – 2×4 Lumber 8′ (cut to 6′-3 1/2″)

1 – 2×6 Lumber 4′ (cut to 3′-7″)

2 – 2×6 Lumber 4′ (cut to 3′-3″) (used for header)

1 – 2×6 Plywood Filler (used for header)

DOOR

2 – 2×4 Lumber 6′ (cut to 5′-6″)

2 – 2×6 Lumber 3′ (no cut)

1 – 2×6 Lumber 3′ (cut to 2′-5″)

1 – Door Handle or Latch

3 – 3 1/2 in. x 5/8 in. Door Hinge

WINDOW (optional)

2 – 2×6 Lumber 4′ (cut to 3′-2 3/8″)

2 – 2×6 Lumber 4′ (cut to 3′-6 3/8″)

2 – 2×4 Lumber 4′ (cut to 3′-2 3/8″)

2 – 2×4 Lumber 4′ (cut to 2′-11 1/4″)

1 – 35 3/8″ x 35 3/8″ Single Hung Vinyl Window

Step 1 – Foundation and Floor

Start with selecting a proper site for the shed foundation, ideally a flat solid surface away from any large trees. The first step is cut all the 2×6 lumbers as shown in the cut list or in the plan below. Next, place the three 10′ 4×4 lumbers parallel to each other at 5′ apart. Then, assemble the four 2×6 perimeter frame on top, this will outline the overall floor frame. Drill pilot holes through the joists and secure with 3 1/2″ screws. Finally, install the seven 2×6 floor joists at 16″ O.C., and 12″ O.C. near the sides. After the floor frame is secured, cut the tongue and groove 23/32″ plywood to size and attach to the frame. You’ll need about 4 full sheets to cover the 100SF floor area. These sheets usually come in standard sizes of 48″ x 96″. Insert 2″ deck screws every 8″ along the joint, don’t leave any gaps between the sheets. Refer to the cut pattern below:

Step 2 – Walls

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Start with the front wall frame first, all frames used here are 2×4’s (except the door and window header which are 2 x 6’s). Cut two 2×4’s to 10′ in length, these will be used for the top and bottom plates. Then, cut eight 2×4’s to 7′-4 1/2″ for wall studs, these will be placed 24″ O.C. Drill pilot holes through the plates and insert the 3 1/2″ screws into the studs to secure in place. Align the frame edges and make sure all corners are flush for a professional result.

See detailed Door and Window framing instructions here:

The 2×4 studs holding up the door header need to be cut at 6′-3 1/2″. To construct the door header, cut two 2×6 lumber to 39″ length, and insert 1/2″ plywood as filler. Use wood glue and 3 1/2″ nails to secure all the pieces together. Next up is the building up the shed’s back wall. Cut two 2×4’s to 10′ length, and eight more 2×4’s to 5′-10″ length. Follow the framing plan below. Space the wall studs to 24″ O.C., identical to the front wall. Drill pilot holes through the plate and insert 3 1/2″ screws to secure the studs. Continue the build by assembling the 2 side wall frames. Cut two 2×4 lumber to 9′-5″ as top and bottom plate, then cut six 2×4’s to 5′-10″ for the studs. Follow the wall frame plan below and assemble 2 sets of side walls. Now that all 4 wall frames are done, time to put them together! First, line up the edges of the front and side wall frame with the floor frame perimeter. Make sure edges line up and there’s no gaps, use a spirit level if needed. Then, drill pilot holes through the bottom wall plate, and insert 3 1/2″ screws to secure wall frame to the floor. After both wall frames are secured, lock the adjacent walls together by inserting 3 1/2″ screws or nails.

Repeat and assemble all 4 wall frames.

Step 3 – Roof

Prepare and cut six 2×4 rafters to 11′-10 3/8″ length. Then cut out 2 notches per Rafter Detail illustration below, these notches are to sit flush with top of the front and back wall frames. The rafters are designed to have an overhang of 10″ on both sides. Tip: start with cutting one rafter first, to make sure everything fits in place. After you’ve finished cutting up the rafters, place them 24″ O.C. on top of the wall frames. Then use 3 1/2″ nails to secure each rafter from the underside of the plate. The next step is to add blockings and top studs to stabilize the roof structure. Measure and cut out 10 2×4 blocks length approximately 1′-10 1/2″, place between each rafters and secure with 3 1/2″ nails from the bottom.

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Now, measure and cut out 2×4 lumbers to be used as top wall studs. These studs will align directly with the wall frame studs. Measure and cut 10 T1-11 plywood siding panels to size. These shed panels interlock, so plan them out accordingly. For the front wall siding, measure and cut out the door and window openings before installing. The rough door opening is 36″ x 77″, and the optional window opening is 2′-11 1/4″ x 2′-11 3/8″. The top notches to fit the rafters are about 1-1/2″ x 3-1/2″. Adding purlins – measure and cut eight 2×4 lumbers to 11′-8″ in length. Place the purlins 24″ O.C. on top of the rafters, and nail them down with 3 1/2″ nails. Make sure the two 9 3/4″ O.C. purlins sit directly on top of the wall frames, to close any gaps between the wall and roof. Measure and cut 2×4 lumbers to size, nail them in-between the purlins as blockings. Finally, measure and cut the corrugated metal roofing panels with an angle grinder (approximately 120SF). These panels are usually 36″ in width, so overlap them to avoid gaps or water leakage. Pre-drill 3/16″ holes every 8″, and insert 2″ screws into the purlins to secure the roofing panels.

Step 4 – Trims, Door, and Window

Measure and cut four 1×4 lumbers to 7′-11 3/4″, and four 1×4 lumbers to 6′-4 3/4″. Align and secure these trims with 2″ nails. As for the door trim: use a 43″ long 2×6 as header trim, and two 6′-5 3/4″ long 2×4’s as frame trims.

Step 5 – Paint

Go ahead and get creative with your new 10×10 lean-to shed!

First, wipe off any dirt or dust off the T1-11 siding surface. Prime the siding with a heavy acrylic primer, a single thorough coat will do the job. It’s best to use a small brush to fill in the grooves and corners first, and then use a larger roller to cover up the flat areas. Let it sit and dry. Then apply two coats of exterior grade acrylic paint, allow enough time between coats to completely dry.

buildblueprint.com - 10x10 Lean To Shed Plans - Build Blueprint

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