Photo: Key Notez

When did square nails stop being used?

They were made individually by blacksmiths. Square-head nails were made from the late 1700s until about 1830. Most were machine-cut and finished off by a blacksmith who squared the heads. From 1830 to 1890, cabinetmakers used headless, machine-cut nails that are a tapered, rectangular shape.

columbiatribune.com - Hardware helps peg an antique's age - Columbia Daily Tribune

How thick should a concrete ramp be?

In most cases, you'll want your concrete ramp to be 4 to 6 inches thick. 4 inches thick is good for sloped sidewalks, walking paths, and wheel...

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Is it worth insulating a log cabin?

Insulating a log cabin is energy-efficient and by default cost-efficient too. An insulated log cabin is cheaper to maintain and won't sting you for...

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Can I build my own shed?

Yes, with the right plans you can build your dream shed.

Learn More »

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Nancy Russell

One of the most important things an antique collector can learn is how to make an “educated guess.” I’m asked, “How old is it?” But even after 40 years in the antique business, I’m still trying to learn how to answer that question. Antique furniture has been my interest for longer than any other kind of antique, so I’ll share some of the basic techniques I use to determine age. First, I look at the width and thickness of the boards that were used to build the piece. Early furniture makers used single boards that were as wide as the tree. In later times, to save money and wood, narrow, uniform boards were glued together. Inspect the piece for evidence of gapping between boards, cracking and protruding pegs. Remember that wood shrinks in a direction opposite of the grain. The amount of shrinkage is determined by the softness of the wood and the age. Early circular tabletops will sometimes become oval or longer in the direction of the grain. They might tend to cup or warp. Study the nails, pegs or screws that were used to hold the boards in place. Furniture predating 1790 will include “rose-head” nails identified by their irregular, rose-shaped heads. They were made individually by blacksmiths. Square-head nails were made from the late 1700s until about 1830. Most were machine-cut and finished off by a blacksmith who squared the heads. From 1830 to 1890, cabinetmakers used headless, machine-cut nails that are a tapered, rectangular shape. Modern wire, brad or penny nails were introduced around 1890. Screws were occasionally used in early furniture, too. Thin and slightly off-center slots and off-round heads can identify blacksmith-forged examples. The threads will be slightly uneven. Nails and screws were expensive and hard to obtain, so many cabinetmakers used small wooden pins or pegs when building furniture. Newer machine-era pins will be perfectly circular and flush to the surface of the boards. Early handmade pegs are not round and protrude slightly from the surface because of shrinkage in the wood. Don’t forget to look on the underside of the boards for visible saw marks. The circular saw wasn’t widely used until after 1830, but if you see straight saw marks on the boards, these might have been cut with vertical motion ripsaws that were used before that time. Finally, look at the patina, or aging, that has occurred on the wood. Ideally, your piece is in original condition, but even if it has been stripped and refinished, you might see signs of the original surface by looking inside the doors or on the edges of drawers. Look for signs of old paint, as many country pieces were originally painted instead of varnished. If you see signs of the original finish, it should appear on all parts of the furniture. Look at the feet, top and sides to determine whether any part has been replaced. Don’t fall in love with the “look” of a piece of furniture before determining its age, condition and value. Try to use your eyes and brain without letting your heart get in the way. This will help you to not make an expensive mistake. Nancy Russell is co-owner of Boone’s Lick Trail Antiques at 4038 E. Broadway in Columbia. If you have an item for “What is It?” or something about which you would like information, please send a photo and brief description to n.russell@mac.com or to Antiques, Columbia Daily Tribune, P.O. Box 798, Columbia, Mo., 65205.

How much overhang should a porch roof have?

12 inches long The minimum requirement for an overhang on a porch roof should be at least 12 inches long. However, some models can range up to two...

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What is the minimum burial depth for PVC conduit?

Use direct-burial underground feeder cable at 24-inches deep (or more). You don't need to use conduit at this depth with UF cable, however, you do...

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Does a shed base need rebar?

Does your shed base really need reinforcing? Not necessarily. But the steel will prevent hairline cracks appearing in the concrete, which would eventually make it crumble and break away, particularly around the edges.

mybuilder.com - Do I Need to re-inforce my shed base? - MyBuilder

Buy the standard reinforcing mesh you can get from most builders merchants. Unless you are going to park heavy machinery or vehicles on the base, or load shelves with equally heavy items, the smallest sheets they have in stock will be more than adequate for your needs. Anything longer/wider will also be thicker and probably more than four times the price and less than twice the size. You are better off with more sheets of the thinner. Use bolt croppers, which you can hire from tool hire shops quite cheaply, to cut the sheets, of which you may need three for that job, to size. The edges of the steel can be up to 150mm (about 6 inches) away from the edges of the concrete - that is, the concrete is wider/longer than the steel. Do not have the steel sticking out of the concrete. Lay the steel sheets side by side or, if you have nowhere to get rid of any offcuts, simply overlap them. For the amount of force or stresses a shed floor will get, no need to be too fussy about how you lay them, just make sure no edges poke out above or to the sides of the concrete and that you don't have more than 150mm of concrete without any steel in it. Closing Tip: If the sheets available are the standard 3.6M length (x 2M wide) lay the longest side across the 12' width of the concrete and they should fit with just a few inches (less than 6) of free concrete at either end. Does your shed base really need reinforcing? Not necessarily. But the steel will prevent hairline cracks appearing in the concrete, which would eventually make it crumble and break away, particularly around the edges.

Can you put a shed on flagstones?

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Can I use gravel to level ground?

If the ground is significantly out of level, and you want to level it out, gravel may be your leveling agent of choice. If you want the building...

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Can I build my own shed?

Yes, with the right plans you can build your dream shed.

Learn More »

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How do you insulate the inside of a shed?

Be sure to do your own research and make the best decision based on how you plan to use the shed. STEP 1: Measure the Space Between the Studs. ......

Last updated Nov 5, 2021