DIY Builds
Photo: RODNAE Productions
Rust builds up on the metal surfaces of door hinges. It's a fact of wear and tear and time. Moisture that sits mixes with oxygen and rust begins to form.
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Rust builds up on the metal surfaces of door hinges. It’s a fact of wear and tear and time. Moisture that sits mixes with oxygen and rust begins to form. It’s not a good look. It can also be dangerous. Rust can cause poisoning, commonly known as tetanus, if it finds its way into the bloodstream and it can cause structural damage and corrosion on the hinge itself which can damage its integrity.
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If the door is pine, it's even more likely to warp. Pine is a conifer, which is a soft-grain wood. It has varying grain lines with even softer grain between them. If not properly sealed -- or even if it is -- the door expands and contracts over the years, resulting in a permanent warp.
Sanding is the next step if you've weighted the door and allowed it to cure for as long as possible and the door remains warped. Install a 100-grit sanding belt on a belt sander. Place a straightedge on the door. There will be a gap between the straightedge and the door, indicating the direction of the warp. If the gap is on the ends of the straightedge, flip the door over so that the warp is facing down and the gap is in the center with the top and bottom edges of the door the highest points. If the top of the door is bowed away from the doorstop, sanding will not help, so skip the sanding if this is the case. Stand at one end of the door and begin sanding the edge of the door at the top where the door contacts the doorstop. Move the sander back and forth perpendicularly across grain of the door on the top edge to taper it down slightly. All of the sanding is done on the top edge where the top of the door contacts the doorstop. Check your progress. The gap between the straightedge and the center of the door gets smaller as you remove wood gradually from the top edge. You won't be able to remove the warp completely, but the door will fit better.
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