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Why is my yard so hard and bumpy?

Freezing and thawing of the soil during late winter and early spring also contributes to the roughness of lawns. The repeated freezing and thawing lifts up or "heaves" the soil, causing the soil surface to become rough or bumpy.

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Bumpy, rough, uneven lawns are annoying, difficult to mow, and potentially dangerous. Several factors contribute to bumpy lawns.

Factors That Contribute to Bumpy Lawns

Many older, established lawns become rough and uneven over time as the turfgrass gradually thins. Sparse, thin lawns have less foliar growth and cushioning effect than thick, dense turfgrass. Thin lawns may be caused by poor maintenance, shade, insects, diseases, and other factors. The reestablishment of a healthy, thick turf would help to alleviate this problem. Bluegrass is generally the best grass for sunny areas, while the fine leaf fescues tolerate considerable shade. Tall fescue is also shade tolerant. Freezing and thawing of the soil during late winter and early spring also contributes to the roughness of lawns. The repeated freezing and thawing lifts up or "heaves" the soil, causing the soil surface to become rough or bumpy. Small castings left on the soil surface by earthworms also contribute to the roughness of lawns. While earthworms are partially responsible for the roughness of lawns, their activity improves the growing environment of the turfgrass plants. Earthworms improve the turfgrass environment by helping to decompose thatch. Their holes improve air and water movement in the soil. Earthworms also improve soil structure. The presence of a large number of earthworms in the yard and garden indicates fertile soils. The destruction of earthworms is not desirable nor feasible. Earthworms are beneficial and most pesticides registered for lawns and gardens will not kill earthworms.

How to Manage and Improve a Bumpy Lawn

Good lawn care practices can help to alleviate the problems associated with rough, bumpy lawns.

Grow Healthy Turf

An application of fertilizer in the spring should thicken the turf and make the bumps less noticeable. Best results can be obtained in late summer (late August to mid-September).

Core Aerify and Power Rake the Lawn

Begin by core aerifying the lawn. Then power rake the area. The power raking will break down some of the bumps in the lawn and also break up the soil cores deposited by the core aerifier. Rake off any loose debris (thatch) brought up by the power rake.

Reseed Grass in the Early Fall to Fill in Thin Spots

Then sow appropriate grass seed for the site. Rake the area with a leaf rake to work the seed into the soil. Finally, keep the soil surface moist to encourage germination. The lawn should be thicker and the surface less rough upon completion of these steps.

Do Not Roll with a Heavy Roller

Rough, bumpy lawns should not be rolled with a heavy roller. While rolling the lawn will remove some of the roughness, it also damages the turf by compacting the soil. Compacted soil conditions reduce turfgrass vigor and may eventually lead to a thinner lawn. Rough, bumpy lawns are annoying. Breaking down some of the bumps by power raking and developing a thick, healthy turf should help alleviate this problem. Destruction of the earthworms is not feasible or advisable. Updated from an article that originally appeared in the April 28, 1993 issue of Horticulture and Home Pest News, p. 56.

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Can I put membrane over gravel?

Membranes are a great way to prevent weeds and unwanted growth interrupting your gravel path; they also help to keep your gravel clean by keeping it away from the soil beneath. Laying a weed membrane can help improve the look of your gravel and is easy to do by following these handy hints!

Make sure the space is clear:

When you have chosen the area that you want to cover, make sure it is clear of plants and other debris. Short stems and sharp rocks can pierce the membrane and may mean that weeds can come through. Weed membrane can be very effective but in areas where weeds are particularly determined we would recommend spraying weed killer before covering with membrane.

Laying the membrane:

When you’re laying the membrane make sure that any joints and gaps are overlapped by at least 100mm. You can secure the membrane with pegs or with large stones. Once you’ve secured the fabric you can cut away any excess material.

The right gravel:

If you are using your weed membrane for a path then we would recommend a 14-20mm decorative chipping that should be laid at a depth of 50mm. However if you have chosen a smaller chipping then lay this a little thinner to stop you ‘sinking’ into it.

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