DIY Builds
DIY Builds
Photo: Andrea Piacquadio
Even an unheated garage or shed is typically enough to keep tender plants in an above-freezing environment. Potted tropicals and houseplants should move inside even if temperatures don't drop below freezing. Many of these suffer damage even at 40 degrees.
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The weather forecasts are calling for possible frost the next couple of nights – at least in scattered and rural areas where frosts often occur later into the spring than more urbanized areas. No need to worry about bulbs, perennial flowers, trees and shrubs. Even if the tender branch tips or newly emerged leaves of any of those are damaged by cold, they'll recover. More of a concern are tender annual flowers, tropical plants, houseplants recently moved out, and warm-weather edibles, such as tomatoes, peppers, melons, eggplants, basil and cucumbers. Annuals, vegetables and herbs that have been planted can be protected by draping a light-weight cloth over top overnight. An ideal protector is a polyester material called "floating row cover" or "frost blanket" made specifically for frost protection. These light-weight materials, sold in most garden centers and through gardening catalogs, can be placed directly over plants. They're porous enough to let in light and rain but trap enough heat to buy plants a few degrees of extra warmth – usually all that's needed to help them survive a below-freezing night. If sheets or heavier materials are used, erect hoops, stakes or similar aids so the material won't weight down and snap plant stems. A spray called FreezePruf is another frost-protecting product sold in garden centers and catalogs. The liquid is applied to the foliage, where it aids plants' ability to fend off ice-crystal damage by 2 to 9 degrees, according to the manufacturer. It works best, however, when it's applied at least 8 hours before a frost. Another option long used by vegetable gardeners is to cover newly planted tender plants with milk jars or large cans. Others set out jugs filled with water among young, tender plants so that the warmth absorbed during the day is transferred into the immediate surroundings at night. An overnight light mist of water also is usually enough to head off frost damage. The warmth in the water is enough to make a difference in mild, short-lived freezes. Orchards often employ this strategy. For plants in pots or ones that haven't yet been planted, the easiest solution is to move them inside for the night. Even an unheated garage or shed is typically enough to keep tender plants in an above-freezing environment. Potted tropicals and houseplants should move inside even if temperatures don't drop below freezing. Many of these suffer damage even at 40 degrees. For potted plants that can't be moved inside, at least move them up against a heated wall or next to a south- or west-facing brick or stone wall. Saved heat from the stone often makes a warm-enough microclimate to milk plants through an overnight late freeze. If the worst happens and you find severely wilted tomatoes, peppers, petunias and such the morning after a freeze, don't yank them right away. Give them at least a week to see if new shoots emerge. Frost-damaged plants sometimes will push out new growth if it wasn't cold enough long enough to kill the roots. In that event, just snip off the dead top growth and allow the new growth to take over. This would be a record-setting late frost if the temperatures dip below freezing at the Harrisburg International Airport. The all-time latest "official" frost date for Harrisburg, based on airport data, is May 11. Frosts in outlying areas, however, aren't unusual into late May.
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